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MyAARPMedicare

I am not sure if the colours are different on the Aussie models but the red light should be the charging circuit light, the orange one should be oil pressure and the blue light high beam.
The connector looks correct.

Not sure this is the correct one:
//minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Cables/37H4881.aspx?0903&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/Gauges/Speedo/YAH100750.aspx|Back%20to

 

//minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Cables/37H4881.aspx?0903&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/Gauges/Speedo/YAH100750.aspx|Back%20to

 

As Bikewiz said, the people on the miniforum may be able to assist to identify it properly.

Minimania also has it:
https://www.minimania.com/part/37H4881/Classic-Mini-Printed-Circuit-Board-2-Gauges

if it is the correct one.

My limited knowledge of instrument clusters is they were made by two different companies Smith's (early) Nippon Seiko (later) I purchased a new PCB from Minispares for my much later '92 they may have the PCB for the early Smith's like yours.

I think, but have no direct knowledge, that early Clubmans had that cluster so it probably came with the car?

There is a very knowledgeable Australian guy on The Mini Forum who goes by the screen name Moke Spider he may be a source of info for you.

The red light in the lower part of the cluster is most likely the oil pressure light.

Interestingly the back of the instrument pod is stamped Aug 1974, which matches the date of manufacture and the VIN. I guess the wiring loom could have been changed, or the PCB, but it doesn't explain why it would have been reassembled with the mismatched connections.

I will certainly look at other wiring diagrams, and thank you for the links. In particular I note that there is a specific diagram for Australian cars, although I can't access the link just at the moment. 

Can anyone tell me about the red light below the speedo? What is it for? If anyone has a similar era car and instrument layout does it work in your vehicle? If you have had the instrument binnacle out was pin 7 connected to anything on the loom?

Thanks again!

OK, that's definitely a later model year set of gauges. I would look through the various wiring diagrams like Terry suggested to match the year to the wiring you have. Also, looking through our host's catalog, or elsewhere, you should be able to match your binnacle to the years it was installed in Minis.

In all my attempts to repair other PCBs I have totally failed. I'd be looking for a new board or changing out the gauges for one of the older styles that don't have PCBs. Sorry, that's all I got. Others probably know more.

This site has many electrical diagrams redrawn in color. It may be helpful to review a few to see what matches.

https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/324929-wire-diagrams-redrawn/

Thanks for replying!

The car has the instrument binnacle mounted behind the steering wheel. It's the 2-pod version:


This is the back of the unit showing the PCB and the fried section between the connector and voltage stabiliser:


For completeness here is the connector and wiring:



Hope the image links work...

The first thing that jumps out at me is that you say there's a Printed Circuit Board (PCB). I could be wrong, but there shouldn't be a PCB behind the gauges, unless you have later gauges and binnacle. That could be why you're having trouble with the wire colors. Are the gauges mounted in a oval center binnacle or in a more rectangular binnacle behind the steering wheel?

Hi!

New here... my background: learnt to drive in a 1275 GT and did simple maintenance on it as a teenager. My first car was a '68 mini - always regretted having to trade it, but it couldn't cope with the miles and I couldn't afford to run two cars...

Anyway now (much) older with a teenage son of my own and starting a rebuild of a 1974 Leyland Mini Clubman 1000 (Australian model). Not much history with the car but it's spent most of its life in WA so very little rust, bad respray, fairly recent engine rebuild and runs pretty smooth, interior very shonky (complete with wasps nest), dodgy electrics.

Stripping things down to find out how much more there is to do and found the PCB behind the instrument panel burnt out... easy enough to replace but the connector plug/wiring loom has me completely confused. FYI this is a 2 instrument binnacle (speedo/tacho on the L, fuel & temp on the right).

Here's what I have and my identification against the wiring diagrams I have found (including on this site) and the PCB/instrument panel itself:

Pin          Wire colour        Function
1             Green/white      R turn indicator
2             Green/black      Fuel gauge
3             Green/blue       Coolant temperature
4             Blue/white        High beam indicator
5             Black                Ground
6             Green/red         L turn indicator
7             Not connected
8             Green               12V (ignition on)
9             Green x 2          Presumably also 12V?
10           Brown/yellow     Alternator warning
11           White/brown      Oil pressure
12           Red/white          Panel lights

I'm happy that the pins/wires 1-6,10 and 11 match the wiring diagram and trace in the PCB to the correct lamps/gauges (although the white/brown oil pressure wire looks white/black to me).

Here are the inconsistencies:

•  -- Pin 12 is definitely the panel lights but the wiring diagram says it should be red/green not red/white.
•  -- Pin 7 is not connected to anything on the wiring loom, but on the PCB the circuit from this contact lights up the red light under the speedo (ignition warning light?)
•  -- Pin 9 has 2 greens but there is no contact on the PCB
•  -- The wiring diagram has an uncoded wire from the ignition switch to the B terminal of the voltage stabiliser, so I assume that this is the single green wire at pin 8 (pin 8 does connect through to B on the PCB, but it is this section that is fried). On the wiring diagram, though, the same ignition switch terminal is connected to a second white wire, which tracing it back I think is 12V whether the ignition is on or off.

Can anyone shed any light on the inconsistencies or my misunderstandings, please? I don't want to fry the replacement PCB!

Thanks in advance!
Richard