shuddering 66 cooper s
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jul 10, 2020 03:53PM | wreck | |
Jul 5, 2020 01:30PM | wreck | |
Jun 30, 2020 10:59AM | Dan Moffet | |
Jun 30, 2020 07:22AM | wreck | |
Jun 30, 2020 05:51AM | jedduh01 | |
Jun 30, 2020 03:02AM | Dan Moffet | |
Jun 29, 2020 04:36PM | wreck | |
Jun 29, 2020 03:04PM | mascherk | |
Jun 29, 2020 05:29AM | dklawson | |
Jun 28, 2020 11:03PM | 1963SV2 | |
Jun 28, 2020 03:53PM | wreck | |
Jun 28, 2020 03:26PM | onetim | |
Jun 28, 2020 11:56AM | croc7 | Edited: Jun 28, 2020 11:56AM |
Jun 28, 2020 10:19AM | Minimike1 | |
Jun 27, 2020 08:43PM | tsumini | |
Jun 27, 2020 07:52PM | Kermy | |
Jun 27, 2020 06:40PM | onetim | Edited: Jun 27, 2020 06:44PM |
Jun 27, 2020 04:20PM | 1963SV2 | |
Jun 27, 2020 03:57PM | wreck |
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one last update:
after narrowing it down to most likely a carburator-related issue, i took it down to Heritage for a look-see to see what they would say. Larry, who has been ever-patient with me and my questions, took a look and noticed that the linkage between my twin carbs was activating them slightly off of each other, and that the fast idle cam wasn't even touching the screw on one of them when the other was being activated. he recommended that before doing any major adjustments, i balance the carbs against each other, adjust my idle, and align the linkage to the carbs.
spent the last couple hours futzing with it and putting it all back together, and i can say that the car is running much more smoothly now! i might invest in a proper manometer to balance the carbs more accurately (i used the rubber tubing method described in the haynes manual) but it certainly is noticeably better than it was.
next up i will probably want to tweak my idle/fast-idle speeds, as i couldn't quite get that locked in... idle seemed a bit fast, but if i lowered it down any more the car would stall out after a little while again. are there any general tips for getting that dialed in?
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Thanks again to everyone assisting!
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A simple test would be to remove the brake vacuum hose from the carb and cap the port. Go for a careful test drive away from hill and traffic and see if the engine is better. Be aware you will have to really stand on the brakes without the assist - hence no hills or traffic. If you don't feel any difference in the brakes, the booster may not be working anyway.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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i checked the dashpots and they seemed to have enough oil. i honestly can't tell about whether the air filter is clean, it looks greyish but i'm not sure what color it was to begin with. probably wouldn't hurt to hit it with the air hose while i'm under there and see what comes off, and replace it if it's pretty bad.
i do have a brake vacuum servo (i think it has another name but i'm blanking on it so i had to look it up in my hayne's ), do you think that it could be related? while i was letting the car idle with the hood up, i noticed what sounded like a hissing sound, so anything that moves air will likely be my next place to look.
i have been thinking about getting new plugs since the issue began, but have put it off because they seemed to be fine (although they are gapped rather larger than the manual says but have been since i got the car). but for the price, i might as well just do it and see if anything happens.
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Freshen those before you start making other changes . Foulded plugs stumble easily and chase missfires.
NGK - BPR6ES - Part number 7131 at your local parts store.
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How long have you owned this car? Are you relatively new to owning classic Minis?
(My suggestions are based on the assumption you are new to Minis.)
Assuming you have a SU carb, before changing any carb settings, have you checked the dashpot oil in the carb? A gradual decrease in performance is often caused by low or absent oil.
If your carb is a SU HS type, it will have a little fuel bowl hung on the side of it. You can remove the cover and inspect for dirt. On the underside of the lid is a float valve - be very gentle with it, being careful not to change its settings.
Is your air filter clean and properly seated?
Are there any vacuum leaks? Do you have vacuum-assisted brakes and are the vacuum hoses in good condition and properly connected?
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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thanks to everyone helping here, i purchased the car as a way to force myself to learn my way around an engine bay and i'm enjoying every minute of troubleshooting. i'll update as i find out more!
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Kelley
"If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual..."
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Also as was suggested above, borrow a 12V (standard, non-ballast) coil and install it as a test. If the problem goes away, buy a replacement coil. If the problem persists, re-install your old coil and fit a new condenser and points.
Always start with tests and if you begin buying parts to swap, buy the cheap ones first and only change one thing at a time.
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Cheers, Ian
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luckily i'm local to a great shop (heritage garage) so i'll give them a ring on monday about a new coil... i didn't realize it could test fine on the bench and still be a problem. and if it's not the issue, then it wasn't too expensive and at least i'll have a spare in the garage
before this, the car was running very smoothly, then this started to crop up little by little. it's been progressing slowly, so i'm not too concerned, but it's noticeable enough now that i want to take care of it sooner rather than later.
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Don't start changing a bunch of parts guessing. You'll never know what the issue was. Start with the coil as suggested, and a condenser is cheap. Buy a good brand product. If you don't have a shop manual, get one for your car. It has all kinds of troubleshooting info and test info along with the regular mechanical repairs.
What was your car running like before this started?
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The tacho is a dead giveaway that you have an ignition issue. IME you can't really do a useful coil test. My Father-in-law used to run an autoelec shop and they chased a bad running problem I had with an old Volvo. They tested the coil and everything else. We changed computers and all sorts of stuff. Eventually they decided to chuck in an old coil that was laying around and voila! Problem solved...
Your problem could be hiding in lots of places but the coil is good place to start (@ zero cost if you can borrow one from a mate or local shop
Cheers, Ian
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initially i thought it might be electrical, as my tachometer is also acting a bit funny (jumpy/glitchy in those ranges) but i've checked my spark plugs, dizzy points, and ignition coil resistance and they're all well and good as far as i can tell.
is it time to tear apart my carbs and give them a good once-over? can i avoid this by putting some Sea Foam in the tank? i've been avoiding this because it's beyond my comfort level, but i've got to start somewhere i suppose.
thanks in advance!