Master cylinders install question
Created by: Willie_B
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Mar 18, 2020 11:34AM | Dan Moffet | |
Mar 18, 2020 06:40AM | malsal | |
Mar 18, 2020 05:56AM | CooperTune | |
Mar 18, 2020 05:28AM | Dan Moffet | |
Mar 17, 2020 06:17PM | DamoMini | |
Mar 17, 2020 02:07PM | MiniMike | |
Mar 17, 2020 10:29AM | Willie_B |
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CooperTune
I'd need to take a look at some of the storage cars but I think the plate with the small hole goes on the left side and
the hole is there for the fuel line to pass though. Steve (CTR)
the hole is there for the fuel line to pass though. Steve (CTR)
When I converted to a HIF44 and an electric pump, I ran the fuel line in metal across the firewall "big hole", well away from the exhaust heat and damage. The other factory-applied lines are for the clutch and dual braking hydraulics.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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I would fit the parts the same way as you remove from the car.
A few years back I did a disc conversion with new masters on a Mini. The parts I removed had just the plate underneath so I cleaned up the plate and painted it then re fitted everything the same. I test drove the car and after a couple of miles the brakes started to lock down so much I just made it back, I released the bleeders everything was fine until a couple of miles again then the same issue popped up.
I started to undo the master thinking it was defective and as I did the brakes released and the car moved. I then fitted gaskets but still had the same issue.
My cure was to cut an master/clutch plate to size so it fitted under the masters but above the factory plate and this worked and is still working.
I will never know if the master was slightly different or the disc conversion threw things off but I do know the spacing is critical.
A few years back I did a disc conversion with new masters on a Mini. The parts I removed had just the plate underneath so I cleaned up the plate and painted it then re fitted everything the same. I test drove the car and after a couple of miles the brakes started to lock down so much I just made it back, I released the bleeders everything was fine until a couple of miles again then the same issue popped up.
I started to undo the master thinking it was defective and as I did the brakes released and the car moved. I then fitted gaskets but still had the same issue.
My cure was to cut an master/clutch plate to size so it fitted under the masters but above the factory plate and this worked and is still working.
I will never know if the master was slightly different or the disc conversion threw things off but I do know the spacing is critical.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I'd need to take a look at some of the storage cars but I think the plate with the small hole goes on the left side and
the hole is there for the fuel line to pass though. Steve (CTR)
the hole is there for the fuel line to pass though. Steve (CTR)
Total posts: 9528
Last post: Mar 27, 2024 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
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On a lefty master cylinder setup, there's no plate. AFAIK, the foam gasket is to block air around the heater hoses on the right hand side. Lefties use the plate on the right to support the wishbone connection. Only gaskets are required on the left hand master cylinders, presumably to keep fluid leaks out of the cabin.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Mines a '78 LHD. Only had it a few months so I can't vouch for what might have been done incorrectly in the past, but I have removed both master cylinders and the engine steady mounting plate on the other (passenger) side. The master cylinders only had the gaskets between them and the bulkhead. The foam pad was underneath the plate on the passenger side of the car where the heater hoses go through.
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