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 Posted: Dec 25, 2019 09:29AM
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CA
No worries doug, I am learning stuff, so that's the fun part.. Merry Christmas to everyone! 


Mini Mike.  .....
Driving the Mini 30 VTEC,  Mini Van ZC now finished! ... mikesmith.vic (at) gmail 

 

 Posted: Dec 25, 2019 08:38AM
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Sorry the phos-copper didn't have the strength.  Did you try slipping a reinforcing strip inside the channel?

Doug L.
 Posted: Dec 24, 2019 05:36PM
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I probably gave away 30 sets of side windows with glass and without, just no market for them, some perfect some broken

Big AL

[email protected]

Niagara Ontario Canada

 Posted: Dec 24, 2019 04:38PM
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Played with a phos-copper brazing alloy on the frame.  needed a lot of heat, and finally got it to flow and fill.. after grinding back though, not strong enough..  . could be my brazing attempt.. will try something else.. thanks for all the info.


Mini Mike.  .....
Driving the Mini 30 VTEC,  Mini Van ZC now finished! ... mikesmith.vic (at) gmail 

 

 Posted: Dec 23, 2019 07:15AM
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Reading this thread makes you realize why BMC/Leyland went to pop in/ pop out side windows in the back 

the cost of using hinged side rear windows would have been cost prohibitive at the time

 Mind you nice to have the air flow capability 

BIG AL

[email protected]

Niagara Ontario Canada

 Posted: Dec 20, 2019 05:30AM
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The silver solder is a good way to go, it can be purchased in a syringe as a paste with flux mixed in from jewelry supply stores on line. 70% silver, 1275 deg. melt, 1360 deg. flow, just a propane torch is enough. The paste lets you pre-assemble and fixture everything before hitting it with the heat. It will bond stainless steel so I would make the patch from that. Cost is about $25.00 to $40.00

The material is quite strong, at work I use it to attach stainless fittings to high pressure stainless fuel lines for testing, repaired some large hole type SS clips for cooper window trim, used it on a cut down A+ 1275 oil vapor can to clear the fan. Once you have it you will find more uses for it

 Posted: Dec 19, 2019 09:48PM
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Doug, that was may concern is well, is melting away the frame I was trying to fix.. doing some keyboard research I found some references to lower temp rods for joining brass and copper, so I may just drop by the local welding and see what they suggest for Brass to Brass brazing. I have also seen the silver brazing rods with flux advertised.. not cheap..  thanks for your feedback.. I suspect I will have to practice on something else and figure it out before I tackle the actual frame.


Mini Mike.  .....
Driving the Mini 30 VTEC,  Mini Van ZC now finished! ... mikesmith.vic (at) gmail 

 

 Posted: Dec 19, 2019 07:09PM
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My concern about welding is based on melting points.  I assume that the silicone bronze for MIG welding will melt between 1800 and 1900 oF.  I don't know what brass alloy was used on the window frames but common 330 Brass will melt around 1700.  My concern is that as you try to weld the crack the thin brass will melt and drip away.  That said... I am making several assumptions to frame my argument and I could be quite wrong.

I am NOT suggesting the low silver content solder you can buy at the home centers.  I am talking about one of the silver solder alloys with a melting point around 1300 oF.  Those solders are very tough and tenacious once they wet the surface and can be applied using a propane or MAPP torch.  I was also suggesting a strip of filler (probably steel) be applied over the break on the inside of the window channel).  You used to be able to buy silver solder rods with a flux coating on the outside.  Some such products are packaged as "silver brazing" or similar descriptions.  

Another possibility would be to use a phos-copper brazing alloy like is used on refrigeration systems.  You may be able to get a local HVAC guy to make the repair.  That would probably cost less than buying the MIG bronze wire and bottle of Argon.  It may even be less expensive than buying an ounce of silver solder and flux (assuming you already have a MAPP or propane torch).

Doug L.
 Posted: Dec 19, 2019 02:56PM
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Doug, I was not sure if silver soldering would be strong enough for the repair? It would be less expensive compared to the MIG Bronze welding as  it needs 100% Argon, which I don't have as I use Argon/CO2 mix for my MIG..


Mini Mike.  .....
Driving the Mini 30 VTEC,  Mini Van ZC now finished! ... mikesmith.vic (at) gmail 

 

 Posted: Dec 19, 2019 02:33PM
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Bronze MIG welding might work.  However, were this my car I would probably gouge the crack out a bit and silver solder the break along with placing a re-enforcing strip of some type on the inside of the channel.  I am also too cheap to consider re-plating the repaired frame.  I would probably just dress down the silver solder, polish, and cover with a clear acrylic or enamel coating.

Whatever you decide to do, please post your results here.  I am interested in knowing how you solve this.

Doug L.
 Posted: Dec 19, 2019 02:11PM
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Trying to repair the frame that fits around the opening rear quarter glass on a classic Mini? I have the frames with a piano hinge.   I have a crack in the frame and after pulling the glass out and starting to clean up the joint, it appears to be a heavy brass frame that has been chrome plated. I had thought it was steel, so was going to Mig it and then re-chrome.. .. I found Silicon Bronze MIG Welding Wire at some of the welding stores, which sounds like it might work. Has anyone tried this? or any other suggestions/  Thanks


Mini Mike.  .....
Driving the Mini 30 VTEC,  Mini Van ZC now finished! ... mikesmith.vic (at) gmail