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 Posted: Dec 9, 2019 06:52PM
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I bought a complete rebuilt unit from our host.  I found that the shift rod, the one that runs parallel to the steady rod had to be rotated 180 degrees.  It moved during shipping.  

 Posted: Dec 9, 2019 02:50PM
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US
Here's all the nuts and bolts and important bits, and results!

 Posted: Dec 8, 2019 05:38AM
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US
I have found that a lot of shift housing have a plastic bushing and it wears though and the bore wears out of round.
I ream the bores to .625 then press in oil lite bushings then ream in line. I also bore the shift eye and machine a
bushing to restore the bore for the small ball at bottom of stick. Also install a 1 x .500 x.250 grease seal in the front
opening to exclude water and grit. I need to order drill rod and make some new shift rods. Steve (CTR)

Yes there are two different length rod assemblies.  

 Posted: Nov 25, 2019 08:05AM
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OKei! I will try det linkage first, just put the engine back in...But if the problem is still there, i guess i have to take it out again to fix the issue! Fingers crossed!

 Posted: Nov 25, 2019 04:33AM
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GB

My money is on the reverse gear bush working its way out of the gear and jamming the selectors - I've had this on a Metro and seen the results in several gearboxes.

All the mucking about with the linkage won't help if it is, it's right in the bottom of the gearbox.

 Posted: Nov 24, 2019 11:48PM
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I will try to fix new bushings and see how the gear end fits to the yoke No, Norway! So thats a bit to far ! Thanks!

 Posted: Nov 24, 2019 06:06PM
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US
The shaft and the bushing in the housing wear..  you can Turn the shift shaft around  end for end and that can take up some of the shaft wear issues.   However if the housing is worn it needs new bushings.


Are you in the USA?
   Steve Gibbs  - Coopertune Offers Rebushing of the Shift housings  refurbishing the assemblies to bring them back to spec


Also check how tight the new yolk fits on the end of the new Short shifter. If its too tight it wont want to freely Rotate.

 Posted: Nov 23, 2019 10:39AM
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Ah, okey! Thank you

 Posted: Nov 23, 2019 09:20AM
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US
The bushing is not available from a mini supplier. You would need to find one that fits the outside diameter of the hole, then ream the inside to fit the shaft size after the bushing is installed.

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: Nov 23, 2019 08:44AM
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No, didnt need to modify the housing! Clicked straight in with the two small bolts Do you know where i can get those bushings? Cant find them! Yeah, i could move the shifter shaft sideways and up and down pretty much! So i think i need to fix that issue ! 

 Posted: Nov 23, 2019 08:37AM
 Edited:  Nov 23, 2019 08:41AM
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US
There should be a bushing on both sides of the shifter housing for the rods. Can you put the old shifter back in for a test? Or did you need to modify the top of the housing for the KAD shifter? Sounds like it is binding when you move the shifter sideways.

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: Nov 23, 2019 03:39AM
 Edited:  Nov 23, 2019 03:47AM
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Okei, i think i found my problem! After some research i think i understood what u ment! 

Rod change
Rodchange 2

I guess there is something missing in the housing ? A metall bush or something?  Only dirt and som rubber was left!

 Posted: Nov 22, 2019 02:12PM
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Thanks! The old shift rod is totally worn, so thats really bad...I will check the shafts tomorrow(You mean the pins that connects the yoke to the shaft can be loose? ) Had to hammer them pretty hard in, so the yoke seemed tight?   The pins at the transmission are good! Att first the quick selector couple i bought from mm was a bit loose, but the pins where not all the way through! But now they are! When i try to move the gear rod to 3 or 4 the only thing moving is the housing , so it seems the yoke wont rotate as you said. I also have new rubber mounts on the bracket! 

 Posted: Nov 22, 2019 01:40PM
 Edited:  Nov 22, 2019 01:50PM
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US
You replaced the shift Yolk inside the housing.. but how are the Shafts in the housing? Specifically how tight does the housing hold the shafts.

With wear the  the housing  shafts that the yolk connect to can be too loose.
 This looseness wont let the shifter push enough to give the 'twist of the yolk for the  2-3 twist needed


Can you retry your original shift rod (removing the quick change for testing purposes too .. new tight Quickshift into a worn assembly wont work = Been there done that.


Also - Are you sure the  roll pins on all ends  ( shift housing end  and Transmission end are all very tight ) no slop there either.

 Posted: Nov 22, 2019 12:41PM
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Hey  So, i have been having so trouble with my gear linkage.(rod change) When i bought the car it was difficult to shift from 2 to 3 and really sloppy. This month i took the engine out(to fix some other issues) and i figured i would fix the gear issue.

I changed the Yoke in the gear housing and bought a KAD quick shifter...I had to cut the steady rod that fits the linkage to the diff due to a bad bolt and bought a new one. Could not find the old steady rod in stock anywhere, so i got the new one that is 1/2 inch longer. Cut it and got a proffesional to weld it back to normal length.(same angles as before)  But the car only goes in 1, neutral and 2. I cannot "rotate" to go in 3, 4 and reverse. Tried taking of the plate att the bottom of the housing but no difference. The car is a 1971 model, with a 1275 A+ engine. So it has the conversion bracket. Is it possible i mounted it wrong. I fix a oil leak at the diff, so i had to move the shifter on the diff? Could this be an issue? Is it possible to attach to shift rod in the wrong way? 

Any tips, please dont hesitate  


Regards from Norway!