oil for Mini 1000
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Buy the highest octane gas you can and avoid gas that contains Ethanol.
The Fram PH 3600 is a good cross reference filter but i stopped using them when i did some comparison checking, other filters seem to be a much better quality inside which is what counts.
I always buy 6 quarts and seem to use 5.5 quarts or a little more oil when doing an oil change depending on the Mini and what filter (long or short) i use but i always try to use the long one (larger capacity) whenever possible.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Buy the highest octane gas you can and avoid gas that contains Ethanol.
Keith & Deb
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I would suggests there hasn’t been much useful advice in this thread so far...
Its a 998, (AFAIK) its not a race car but intended for road use. Race oil is not generally formulated for road conditions... periods of non use, cooler running ..multiple starts etc.
As for the effect of the gearbox.... the engine stresses the oil beyond anything the gearbox can throw at it. Many manufacturers recommend engine oil in their manual gearboxes .... and don’t worry about specifying a change period (for the gearbox), because it doesn’t really wear out.
As for the warning about synthetic oil.... You want a thin oil that gets around the engine quickly at startup but protects better when things get hot and frantic ...and synthetics just do it better...
Minis survived for decades on plain old Castrol 20W50 ...long before anyone thought about race oils etc.
Cheers, Ian
- o Specifically formulated for race-level protection in all classic and modern high-performance vehicles, including flat-tappet and performance cam engines
- o High zinc and phosphorus formula for extreme anti-wear protection
Unlike typical racing oils, it is also designed for a normal 3000 mile oil change.
Rotella diesel oil, which is also rated for cars, might be a cheaper solution. It is available as conventional, blend or full synthetic and it also has high zinc but I don't remember anyone talking about it on the mini forum.
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I buy VR1 when it is on sale (regular price around here is $8/qt for dino oil and $10 for synthetic). Brad Penn (formerly Kendall) is another racing oil that is available with ZDDP but it is largely mail order and not found in many stores. I am sure there are other brands if you hunt and are willing to pay shipping.
There are lots of ZDDP additives you can pour into more commonly available oils. I am not above that.
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I would suggests there hasn’t been much useful advice in this thread so far...
Its a 998, (AFAIK) its not a race car but intended for road use. Race oil is not generally formulated for road conditions... periods of non use, cooler running ..multiple starts etc.
As for the effect of the gearbox.... the engine stresses the oil beyond anything the gearbox can throw at it. Many manufacturers recommend engine oil in their manual gearboxes .... and don’t worry about specifying a change period (for the gearbox), because it doesn’t really wear out.
As for the warning about synthetic oil.... You want a thin oil that gets around the engine quickly at startup but protects better when things get hot and frantic ...and synthetics just do it better...
Minis survived for decades on plain old Castrol 20W50 ...long before anyone thought about race oils etc.
Cheers, Ian
I tried it for one change but found it wilted pretty quickly. So went back to synthetic I've been using for the last 26years/150K miles/....
Cheers, Ian
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I would suggests there hasn’t been much useful advice in this thread so far...
Its a 998, (AFAIK) its not a race car but intended for road use. Race oil is not generally formulated for road conditions... periods of non use, cooler running ..multiple starts etc.
As for the effect of the gearbox.... the engine stresses the oil beyond anything the gearbox can throw at it. Many manufacturers recommend engine oil in their manual gearboxes .... and don’t worry about specifying a change period (for the gearbox), because it doesn’t really wear out.
As for the warning about synthetic oil.... You want a thin oil that gets around the engine quickly at startup but protects better when things get hot and frantic ...and synthetics just do it better...
Minis survived for decades on plain old Castrol 20W50 ...long before anyone thought about race oils etc.
Cheers, Ian
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I would suggests there hasn’t been much useful advice in this thread so far...
Its a 998, (AFAIK) its not a race car but intended for road use. Race oil is not generally formulated for road conditions... periods of non use, cooler running ..multiple starts etc.
As for the effect of the gearbox.... the engine stresses the oil beyond anything the gearbox can throw at it. Many manufacturers recommend engine oil in their manual gearboxes .... and don’t worry about specifying a change period (for the gearbox), because it doesn’t really wear out.
As for the warning about synthetic oil.... You want a thin oil that gets around the engine quickly at startup but protects better when things get hot and frantic ...and synthetics just do it better...
Minis survived for decades on plain old Castrol 20W50 ...long before anyone thought about race oils etc.
Cheers, Ian
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Tomrosewood
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Tom - please check your email junk folder. I've sent you a couple of emails and I don't think you are getting them.
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Whatever you use, pick an oil designed for old tappet engines. Buy in bulk, Minis have a tendency to leak and burn lots of oil.
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I also rescued a trans in a MK1 Fiesta, and a Subaru WRX with red line oil, worked great.
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