Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Sep 5, 2019 10:16AM
Total posts: 1562
Last post: Sep 19, 2019
Member since:Dec 29, 2004
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 9
WorkBench Posts: 0
Here are some testing instructions:

Confirm the Gauge is OK by Using an External Signal
If you have access to a 47 ohm - 100 ohm resistor you can easily verify the gauge is OK as follows:

  • Disconnect the signal wire from the gauge.
  • Install the resistor between the signal and ground connections on the gauge.
  • Connect 12V Power and Ground connections to the gauge.
  •  
With power to the gauge and a resistor across the signal input and ground you will see the pointer move to the corresponding dial position.

  • For gauges with Type 1 or Type 2 sender: 50 ohms ~ 45 PSI, 100 ohms ~ 90 PSI.
  • For gauges with Type 3 sender: 50 ohms ~ 90 PSI, 100 ohms ~ 70 PSI.
  •  
If you do not have access to a resistor but do have another working fuel level or temp gauge you can use the power, ground and signal connections from the known good gauge on the oil pressure gauge to verify that the oil pressure gauge is OK. Note, the pointer will move according to the ohm output from the sender you are using to test the gauge.


Most issues are due to incorrect wiring or sender hookup. Since the gauge is dropping to zero, could this be a grounding or wiring issue?

 Posted: Sep 1, 2019 09:02AM
Total posts: 8259
Last post: Sep 20, 2019
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
Okay... is there a way to separately test the pressure gauge, maybe by removing the sender from the engine and gradually applying pressure to it to see how the gauge reads?

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Aug 31, 2019 10:17AM
Total posts: 26
Last post: Aug 31, 2019
Member since:Aug 25, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
The original "Idiot" light is still connected.  The adapter for the  Cravenspeed gauge pod set allows for the original pressure sending unit to still be used.  If its removed, the oil pressure light stays on. 
Good question, but sorry, not really an option.

 Posted: Aug 31, 2019 09:14AM
Total posts: 8259
Last post: Sep 20, 2019
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
You wrote that this happened after you put in the aftermarket gauge pod. Could you reconnect the original oil pressure gauge to see if it isn't a gauge problem?

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Aug 31, 2019 07:10AM
Total posts: 26
Last post: Aug 31, 2019
Member since:Aug 25, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I am at a cross-roads here... do I spend $500 and get a new oil pump and replace it or do I spend $350 and buy a new oil filter housing assembly and replace it?  Of course the oil filter housing assembly is less money, but does that sound like the likely culprit?   I will be frustrated if I replace either with no positive results.  Is there any way to definitively diagnose either of those parts to determine if one or the other is bad?  I am hemorrhaging money in to this little car to see it just sit because I am not used to vehicles having such low oil pressure.  Still no warning light, but the mechanical gauge shows 0 (zero ) oil pressure when warmed up and driven while the engine is idling and the car is stopped.
Words of wisdom are appreciated...

 Posted: Aug 31, 2019 06:55AM
Total posts: 26
Last post: Aug 31, 2019
Member since:Aug 25, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I was using non-BMW/Mini oil filters.  But I bit the bullet and purchased BMW/Mini oil filters-No difference
I run synthetic 5W-30 high mileage motor oil currently.  I have tried Castrol, Havoline, Valvoline, Penzoil, Mobile, and of course, the most expensive oil I have ever purchased, genuine mini from the dealership in Sacramento.  None of which I kept in the engine for more than 100 miles trying to see if any of them made a difference.  Yes, this is getting expensive!
The riser for the mechanical gauge supplied by Cravenspeed for the gauge pod accepts the original oil pressure sending unit. So it basically stays in the same location.  No oil pressure warning light present. But this has me spooked so the car does not get driven.  
I guess my next adventure is to drop the pan, again... and R/R the oil pump. 

 Posted: Aug 20, 2019 08:45AM
 Edited:  Aug 21, 2019 04:49AM
Total posts: 1562
Last post: Sep 19, 2019
Member since:Dec 29, 2004
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 9
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadwarrior

Looking for ideas.  I added the Craven Speed Gauge Pod set to my Cooper after I did the last timing chain/guide replacement.  These are cool, but I noticed that after my car is warmed up and driven, when I come to a stop or park, my oil pressure drops to 0 ( zero ).  If I tap on the gas, is shoots back up to about 20psi.   So, since my car has 140K miles and this is the second timing chain set, I decided this weekend to buy new cam sprocket bolts, remove the new timing chain set and do the Oil Pump drive chain kit.  Mine was definitely worn, probably a good thing to do each time the timing chain and guides are replaced.  But, it didn't cure the problem. I do have to say, the oil pressure gauge needle is more stable when it has pressure.  before it kind of hopped around a bit. 
If I am getting over 40psi when cold and averaging 20-35psi while driving, do you think its an oil pump?  Never got an Oil light and still don't.  I had to replace the Oil Pressure sending unit because it was leaking, so its fairly new.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I wonder if there is an issue with:

the oil filter not seating / sealing correctly in the housing? (MINI filter?)
bypass valve or drain valve in the oil filter housing defective?

What viscosity oil are you using?

I presume the oil pressure sensor for the gauge is at the oil filter housing - or is it somewhere else?

 Posted: Aug 20, 2019 06:08AM
Total posts: 26
Last post: Aug 31, 2019
Member since:Aug 25, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

Looking for ideas.  I added the Craven Speed Gauge Pod set to my Cooper after I did the last timing chain/guide replacement.  These are cool, but I noticed that after my car is warmed up and driven, when I come to a stop or park, my oil pressure drops to 0 ( zero ).  If I tap on the gas, is shoots back up to about 20psi.   So, since my car has 140K miles and this is the second timing chain set, I decided this weekend to buy new cam sprocket bolts, remove the new timing chain set and do the Oil Pump drive chain kit.  Mine was definitely worn, probably a good thing to do each time the timing chain and guides are replaced.  But, it didn't cure the problem. I do have to say, the oil pressure gauge needle is more stable when it has pressure.  before it kind of hopped around a bit. 
If I am getting over 40psi when cold and averaging 20-35psi while driving, do you think its an oil pump?  Never got an Oil light and still don't.  I had to replace the Oil Pressure sending unit because it was leaking, so its fairly new.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.