I am definitely enjoying every minute driving my mini and not obsessing over what could happen. I know what I would like to upgrade on the car, what I can do and want to do to make the car appear more of how I picture it in my mind, and I’m developing a time frame on when I can make it happen. In about 5 years, I won’t have a work vehicle and this car is currently planned to be my daily driver by that time. If upgrading small things like the cooling system, an electronic distributor, brakes, shocks, wheels, tires etc., along the way improves its quality of life and drive, it’s not such a bad thing. I feel it’s a good thing to have a road map for the future in case some thing breaks. As I’ve been told, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. 

gunslinger.. take the advise from TRP.. enjoy your classic mini now..ONLY  worry about upgrades when it breaks now.. I own a Dozen british cars now.. always working on at least 4-5 of them.. at time. to keep them ALL  the road and running.. later  bc

I do enjoy driving the little car.  Since it's arrival (and after some minor mechanical upgrades) in June, my little car and I have logged in close to 1000 miles driving here and there on the weekends.  I have always been an overthinker and one thing leads to another.  I would love to upgrade the engine with some Cooper S parts, upgrade the transmission, put disc brakes on the rear, etc.   I just keep adding things to my wish list.  Haha.  I promise I am totally not stressing over every detail or waiting on something to break.  It is nice to have a project and I really enjoy working on and learning about this little car.  I agree I may be a little all over the place in some areas.  It can be a little difficult to curb my enthusiasm.   

Gunslinger,

I have to suggest that you pump the brakes a bit. I mean that metaphorically. What's wrong with the coil / distributor in the car now? What's wrong with anything on the car now?  Replace what's broken / worn with new/upgraded parts. Until something breaks do some maintenance and then just drive and enjoy the car. Your question about cleaning up the engine and engine compartment turned into buying a new distributor, coil, and whatever else. Don't fall into that mental trap of fixing a phantom problem before it pops up. Check the rubber bits. Check the stoppy bits. Check the rolley bits. Add gas. Go drive.

I have bought and enjoyed many classic cars. Take some advice and dont turn the car into something you *have* to work on. Get out and drive it. Most fun I've had with a classic car? The year I bought a 1929 model A. Bought it, put new tires on it and replaced the shocks. Drove the snot out of it. Never had a single problem. I spent time cleaning it and just enjoying the car. Could I have done juice brakes, alternator, electronic ignition? Yup! But why?

Ted

I, for one, am extremely grateful for all you “old timers”, as well as everyone else I’ve met on this forum. You welcomed me with no prejudice and made feel like part of the group immediately. Y’all have such a wealth of knowledge and have had an answer to every question and kept me from making a lot of big mistakes.  

doug..  lots of the old timers  have either  sold off their minis, or minis have NOT run in years.. or even worse MOVED to Forrest Lawn Grave yard..

Fond memories.  I wish more of the old crowd still posted here.

Many years ago my old buddy Billy Back Stay and I ran a series here called CTR/Alex. Starting with a bare 85 1000 E shell we posted pics and text of the process. As the project approached $18,500. I ran out of money and still had no power unit. As a result I picked up a used 998 power unit and all the parts an airman could strip off his UK mini and ship to the states. The speedo showed 87,000 miles. I power washed the power unit replaced the timing chain/gears and tensinor Also the front seal, diff seals, tappet and valve cover gaskets. The water pump by pass  all hoses and thermostat. Due to issues beyond my control CTR/Alex became my sole transportation for 17 years and well over 176,000 miles. The well used 998 hung with me just over 100,000 of those. A bad by pass hose failed on a 20 degree day. I replaced it with a 1360cc Cooper S power unit with a trick gear box. First thing I realized was the 145/10 tires on 4.5 Cooper S rims would have to be replaced with 165s on 5 inch rims. Wheel spin with the narrow tires in first, second and third depending on how much fun I was having was problem. I'm ready to remove the 1360 and try one of my hopped up 998s. Steve (CTR) 

Thank you!  I will check that when I get home.

I cannot tell you the years for ballast ignitions but I can tell you a couple of tests to determine what is on the car.

Mark and remove the low-tension wires from the coil.
Use a multimeter to measure the resistance across the coil's low tension terminals.
Remove your meter from the coil and touch its probe tips together to measure the test lead resistance.
Subtract the test lead resistance from the resistance you measured across the coil.
If you find 1 to 2 Ohms, the coil is a ballast type.  If you find about 3 Ohms, it is a "standard" 12V coil.

Of course, previous owners may have changed the coil.  Therefore you should also measure the voltage at the coil to see what coil SHOULD be installed.
Set the meter to measure volts.
Remove the distributor cap and place a penny between the points.
Turn the key to the run position.
Measure the voltage between the coil's "hot" terminal and chassis ground.
If you find 12V, your car has standard (non-ballast) coil wiring.  If you find 6V to 9V, the car has wiring for a ballast coil.

Thank you for the information!  I have determined the number or type of distributor I have and what I need to replace it with.  I have always been a fan of the "if its not broken, don't fix it" school of thought.  Since this little car will eventually be my main driver for all non work purposes, I start thinking what can I fix now so it won't break later.  Haha. 

I would have never guessed this little car had so many different parts / upgrades over the years.  I made a list of the items to check out / work on first such as the electronic distributor, ignition coil, plug wires, making sure the brakes are good and replacing any damaged brake lines and pads, checking steering joints, shocks, and getting the correct size tires.  As I slowly build my wish list, I have come to realize the little cars also have ballast or non-ballast ignition systems.  Is there a way to be able to tell the difference or is everything one type until a certain year / make?  If I am upgrading to a new distributor, should I go ahead and upgrade the coil as well? 

guns.. I use the electronic dissys From Sport Cars Parts in Knoxville Tenn.. rob garrison is great guy.. later bc

Electronic distributor added to the list. I would have never guessed there were so many different kinds. 

whee..  great idea.. but finding a good 1275 cc core will be the problem in 2019,, scarce as hens TEETH. these days.. later bc

Agree with the if it 'ain't broke don't fix it'. Electronic dizzy is a good upgrade.

If you want to be rebuilding an engine, do it with a 1275, not a 998.

gunslinger. on all  used 998cc. 1098 cc 1275 engines.. that I used in the mokes aka Chokes.. I replace the dissy. with electronic one..  new plugs and wires.. rebuild the alternator..  and rebuild the head..   this total is only about $500 NOT including labor..  does wonders for the old A plus engines..  later bc

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.  Seriously.  Don't assume grunge in the engine bay means grunge in the engine or gearbox.

If the car is running and driving well, don't spend ANY money on fixing mechanical things that do not require repair.  This is especially true if the car is not your daily driver.

If you want to make the car reliable and safe for those weekend trips, go through the braking system, adjust the valves, do an ignition tune up (don't touch the carb until you know what you are doing), and MAYBE go through cleaning all the electrical connections.  

Making the engine bay look nice is easier if the engine is removed.  However, save that for some future date when you NEED to remove the engine.  You can get the engine bay to look pretty nice if you thoroughly degrease and prep the various parts so they can be painted using an airbrush (with decent masking).  

Good morning all!  As most of you know, I replaced a radiator, radiator fan, water pump, and top and bottom  radiator hoses over the weekend.  I will be replacing the heater hoses (and maybe all the hoses with silicone hoses) in the future.  As I was removing all the parts from the engine compartment, I realized that I have a long road ahead of me in sprucing up my little car.  I have attached a before picture (with everything removed) and after picture (after replacing all the parts).  During the process, I found the engine compartment a little less than savory looking.  Cosmetically, the engine compartment looks pretty rough.  if the engine compartment looks that way, I can only imagine what the engine and other parts may look like or the condition they may be in.  I have a feeling the engine and transmission may be where my next focus should be (instead of some cosmetic upgrades to make her look even better).  

Since the engine and transmission will be my main focus, any ideas of advice as to where I should start?  Is it more cost effective to rebuild the top end of the engine, completely rebuild the engine, purchase a new engine?  Same questions for the transmission, rebuild or buy outright?  After the engine and transmission, then I will probably move on to the CV axles, steering rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc.  As much as I would love to improve her looks, I want her to have a much longer life mechanically.  Since my little Mini is my grocery getter and main recreational vehicle when I am not a work, I am trying to figure out the best course of action to take.  As always, I thank you all for any input or advice you can offer.