Screw the TOB arm bolt back into the clutch cover. Push the arm, until this pushes the slave cyl piston all the way back inside the cylinder.  In doing so, it displaces fluid back into the master.  If it wont move, open the slave bleed screw until the piston goes all the way in.
Now grab the arm and pull it, see how far the arm moves before the TOB touches the clutch.  This movement is all going to be lost motion for the slave cylinder.  A lot of motion indicates that the arm got bent, or the arm pivot pin got worn, or the clutch got worn, or the TOB is worn, and also the crank thrust washers wore down.  If you see the crank pulley move outward when pushing the clutch, someone has been holding the clutch pedal down when the engine was running, that pedal is only to be used while shifting.  To get rid of a lot of lost motion, the quick fix is to remove the pushrod and add a spacer to lengthen it, so that the TOB is almost touching the clutch when the slave piston is bottomed.  But although that could get you moving again, if the master and slave are OK then you probably are looking at bigger repairs next.

Assuming this is a pre-verto clutch application, did you adjust the throw out arm stop?

Have you had a friend watch the slave cylinder while you push the clutch pedal to see how much movement there is in the slave pushrod?

Once you pump the pedal multiple times as you said, can you hold the pedal down continuously and move between multiple gears (while sitting) or does the gearbox quickly make grinding noises as you try to shift?

I've replaced the master cylinder and sleive cylinder. Blead everything up but I still have to pump clutch 3 times fast to push sleive cylinder fully out before I can select a gear. What is my next thing to check