× 1-800-946-2642 Home My Account Social / Forum Articles Contact My Cart
Shop Now
Select Your Car Type Sale Items Clearance Items New Items
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Feb 15, 2019 01:18AM
Total posts: 1368
Last post: Jul 20, 2023
Member since:Jul 15, 2008
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117
WorkBench Posts: 1
US
I got my rear radius arm brackets installed and adjusted. Here's the backstory [link]. So, was it worth it? Meh…

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Feb 6, 2019 11:40PM
 Edited:  Feb 6, 2019 11:47PM
Total posts: 1368
Last post: Jul 20, 2023
Member since:Jul 15, 2008
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117
WorkBench Posts: 1
US
Success! A combination of different jacking points and a large tapered drift into the bolt holes did the trick—after I figured out which end of the endoscope was up. I have to confess it never occurred to me that the orientation of the camera was important.

The business end of the endoscope is a small diameter cylinder and there's no indication as to which is the top and which is the bottom. To determine if I needed to lift the body up or pull the trunnion down to align the bolt holes, the camera needs to be oriented correctly. It was only after I had been making my adjustments opposite of what they should be I yanked the endoscope out of one of the bolt holes and caught sight of my upside down garage on the screen. Duh!

I expect I'll need advice when I begin adjusting my toe brackets; the instructions are useless. Stay tuned.

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Feb 6, 2019 11:37PM
Total posts: 10232
Last post: Mar 26, 2024
Member since:Mar 24, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
GB
Original factory subframe bolts had tapered ends to help line things up.

Try loosening the trunnion on the subframe, lining everything up with the bolts inserted, then doing it all back up again.

 Posted: Feb 6, 2019 06:16PM
Total posts: 1368
Last post: Jul 20, 2023
Member since:Jul 15, 2008
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117
WorkBench Posts: 1
US
Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
You could make some alignment pins, basically the bolts without heads and a taper. Any machine shop could make you a couple. Once jacked up on the pins, swap for the bolts one at a time.
That's an excellent idea. Meanwhile, I'll see if I have any similiar sized bolts in the bin. I can grind the threads off and add a taper. Hope in my next post I'm not whining about stripped threads.

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Feb 6, 2019 04:03PM
Total posts: 1007
Last post: Jul 19, 2022
Member since:Jul 24, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
You could make some alignment pins, basically the bolts without heads and a taper. Any machine shop could make you a couple. Once jacked up on the pins, swap for the bolts one at a time.

 Posted: Feb 6, 2019 03:33PM
Total posts: 1368
Last post: Jul 20, 2023
Member since:Jul 15, 2008
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117
WorkBench Posts: 1
US
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRiley
Sounds like maybe the body has a bit of a twist in it. Have you tried jacking up the opposite rear corner (or maybe the front) to see if the weight of the car will twist the other side down some? Maybe get someone to sit in the back seat and shift around while it's jacked up. Just make sure you don't try to force it and get the bolts cross-threaded. Don't ask me how I know this.
There didn't seem to be any body twist when I unbolted the trunnions. The bolts came out smooth and straight and the jack stands hadn't been moved. Yeah, don't want to strip the threads. I guess I'll continue to try different jack stand positions. Maybe load some grandkids in the back seat too.

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Feb 6, 2019 10:17AM
Total posts: 2100
Last post: Oct 22, 2023
Member since:May 1, 2007
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 220
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Sounds like maybe the body has a bit of a twist in it. Have you tried jacking up the opposite rear corner (or maybe the front) to see if the weight of the car will twist the other side down some? Maybe get someone to sit in the back seat and shift around while it's jacked up. Just make sure you don't try to force it and get the bolts cross-threaded. Don't ask me how I know this.

 Posted: Feb 5, 2019 11:30PM
Total posts: 1368
Last post: Jul 20, 2023
Member since:Jul 15, 2008
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117
WorkBench Posts: 1
US

In order to install my new adjustable rear toe brackets, I had to remove the two bolts per side that secure the rear subframe trunnions to the body. I had the rear subframe on jack stands when I removed the bolts, and they came out smoothly without binding. When it came time to put the bolts back in, the bolts on the left side went in without a problem. The right side bolts, however, don’t line up with the threaded holes in the body

 

I loosened the left side bolts and disconnected my sway bar to allow movement between the swing arm, body and the subframe and tried moving the jack stands around. I even tried placing the jack stands under the very rear of the body to allow the subframe to hang unsupported, but still cannot get the holes to line up.

 

The picture was taken with an endoscope from inside the trunnion hole with the threaded body hole in the background. Has anyone experienced this problem and does anyone have any ideas how I might get the holes to align? Thanks!

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports