× 1-800-946-2642 Home My Account Social / Forum Articles Contact My Cart
Shop Now
Select Your Car Type Sale Items Clearance Items New Items
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Dec 8, 2018 04:21PM
Total posts: 3862
Last post: Dec 2, 2019
Member since:Apr 26, 2005
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I'll admit, I didn't read every single post. Hopefully this wasn't mentioned.

I had a HECK of a time getting my clutch to work properly. The biggest oversight was the ball at the end of the arm. I went to a muffler shop and had them add metal back to the end. Then I got TOO much throw. I ground it down and it was too short again. I bought parts from a hardware store and made an adjustable pushrod. I used an eyelet with threaded shaft, a threaded bolt (1.5" long) and a section of threaded rod. I closed the eyelet down by removing a section of it, heating it and bending it to fit the clevis pin perfectly. I welded the threaded nut to the threaded rod then cut it to length. Hope I haven't lost you yet. In the end I bled out the system and made tiny adjustments until it was at the exact position to the floor and made for smooth shifting.

The ball on the end of the arm, the plunger hole and the push rod all wear out. It's easy to overlook any or all of them. Good luck on your quest. Poor transmission, hope you figure it out soon.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Nov 30, 2018 04:21PM
Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
The new replacement slaves have 10 mm bleed screws and the rear wheel cylinders have 7 mm bleeders, nothing to fret about Europe has been metric for a long time.
When pushing the slave piston back into the bore use a piece of hose into a clear bottle with some brake fluid in it and when you release it it will suck the fluid back into the cylinder which should help keep the air out of the system.




If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 29, 2018 06:22PM
Total posts: 1716
Last post: Oct 18, 2020
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I have found one non-standard procedure that can sometimes help disengage the clutch a bit further....

Sometimes, a small air bubble can form at the bleeder end of the slave. Even after extended bleeding the bubble can remain and the fluid just flows around it.

So after a few goes at bleeding, remove the slave rod to clutch arm clevis pin.... and the spring.

Open the bleed valve

Push the slave pushrod/piston (by hand) gently into the slave... you'll (maybe... probably??) see some bubbles/fluid flow out of the valve.  Keep pushing until no more air appears (or the piston runs out of travel).

Close bleed valve.

Have assistant gently push the pedal until the slave push rod can be connected back up. You may have to open up the clutch adjustment gap.

Once everything is connected up try another bleed sequence - which should result in no bubbles...

And you should be good to go....

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Nov 29, 2018 05:14PM
Total posts: 84
Last post: Mar 23, 2021
Member since:Feb 12, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I ha had this problem this summer,Did the .020 on the arm and all the other things mention.I replaced the arm,for ware,new slave,leaking,new slave push rod and new pins.The number 1 thing is to make sure that you get all the air out.You should not have to turn the big nuts if you didnt  do anything to clutch.REMEMBER,ALL AIR OUT,AND CHECK FOR WARE

 Posted: Nov 29, 2018 10:48AM
Total posts: 84
Last post: Mar 23, 2021
Member since:Feb 12, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Had the same problem this summer,replaced the slave,all clevis pins that had ware,and new slave rod.A little bit of play in the parts add up when you are talking .020 to push the arm.I found the most important thing was to get the air out of the slave.that little bit of air does things that drives you crazy.I was told not to monkey with the big nuts by the diafram unless you have replaced the clutch.Remember,Air and Wear not Good

 Posted: Nov 28, 2018 08:11PM
Total posts: 1716
Last post: Oct 18, 2020
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by gptoyz
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1963SV2
Looks like  a  prime example of  fixing something that ain’t broke.

Your  friendly local Minishop might have pointed out that  your  old  clutch  arm  is indeed a proper Mini item albeit slightly modified  -  no doubt to accommodate the normal wear in the rest of the mechanism.  There was absolutely no reason to replace it... (other than profit for the guy you bought it off).

Don’t know where  you got the advice  re  the  1/8” gap. Its wrong .. forget it.

So,as per the original advice....  remove the nuts and try again.

If the clutch still drags (grinds) take the rubber seal off the end of teh slave cylinder, have attractive assisitant press pedal to floor and check whether the slave piston is running into the C clip at teh outer end of teh slave bore.

If it is, replace the new clutch lever with the old one and you should be right.  

Cheers,  Ian
  
we were following this guide:
https://www.7ent.com/pages/article-easy-pre-verto-clutch-adjustment.html

actually it's her car, she also bought the haynes manual - but it wasn't much help either.

thanks for the advice, we'll check it out

is there an official service manual?  this car is slightly a basket of unknowns.  honestly, I wouldn't even have known anything was wrong with the clutch arm or thought of replacing it if her service shop hadn't mentioned it.

I always found the guys from 7 to to up front and knowledgable... But you'd have to ask them where the 1/8th came from.  Its not part of the factory process.. Which basically (means I can't be assed to retype the whole passage) comprises;  1.  loosen the overthrow nuts right off. 2. press the pedal to floor.  3. Wind in nuts until they touch the housing.  4.  Release clutch.  5. Wind nut in one more flat.  Don't forget, this is with all new factory parts properly adjusted.  The chances that years of wear and replacement parts means your system might roughly replicate the standard clearances etc..maybe...

So ... as I'm getting tired of saying... just get rid of them... or wind them out of the way.

I'm thinking "her service shop" is not 7 .....???

I measured my slave bleeder .. its 7/16th .. a 10mm spanner is too small.  But then its old and more modern replacement parts might be different.  The slave cyl. in not a uniquely Mini part.. other cars use versions of the same (Lockheed) product.    Mine came off a 80/90s GM product and was fitted because it has a slightly small bore .. giving a touch more travel. The GM and Leyland bits "look" the same.  But I wouldn't worry ... the important part is "how far does the top of the clutch are move when you floor the pedal" ??  Have you measured it ... and is it something like 15/16th"???

IMHO the main problem is that people expect parts made up to 50 odd years ago (when did they swap to the verto clutch??...late 70s??) to not wear and for parts made by a range of aftermarket companies to still fit and work exactly as the designer intended.  When parts don't work as intended one has to work out why and make whatever adjustments are required.  Setting things to factory (or maybe not) specifications just doesn't take into account the variations and tolerances that have built up over time....

You pays your money and takes your chances..

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Nov 28, 2018 07:34PM
Total posts: 6908
Last post: Dec 4, 2023
Member since:Feb 26, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
if you've replaced the clutch arm, I'm gonna suggest that it does not have the correct bend in it and that's your issue. put in the old one and see if your problem goes away.  And when the new one is out during the swap, hold them side by side and look at the angle of the arms. 

depending on what your 'new' arm is made of, it can be bent if heated with an oxy acetylene torch setup. put the bottom end in a large vise and once heated, put a pipe on the upper side and give it a slight tug.  If it's the same material as the oem part, you won't need to get it cherry hot, just red hot. Caution, don't over bend it. 

 Posted: Nov 28, 2018 08:31AM
Total posts: 44
Last post: Nov 28, 2018
Member since:Sep 26, 2016
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I recently had exactly the same issue after replacing my clutch and setting everything up per spec. Everything worked fine with car off

But shifting with the engine running was a problem.  It turned out that the stock return spring was too strong. I replaced it with a lighter spring and have no issues.  These clutches seem to be unforgiving.

1976 1000 (Current Project)

1975 1000 Donor

1969 Cooper (Future Project)

1971 Opel GT

1972 Corvette Stingray

 Posted: Nov 28, 2018 06:10AM
Total posts: 4134
Last post: Oct 13, 2020
Member since:Oct 8, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
I don't open links so can't see the pics. If I read correctly the pushrod had been modified. Was it made longer? I have had a number of the long arms from plunger to pushrod bend at the short end. When this happens the throwout arm needs replacing or lengthen the pushrod.  Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Nov 27, 2018 11:54PM
Total posts: 11
Last post: Nov 28, 2018
Member since:Nov 6, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
also the bleeder screw fits a 10mm wrench perfectly, should this concern me.  Every time I need a metric tool for this car I get a little bit of anxiety that either something is cross threaded or someone put something on there that just fit

 Posted: Nov 27, 2018 11:32PM
Total posts: 11
Last post: Nov 28, 2018
Member since:Nov 6, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1963SV2
Looks like  a  prime example of  fixing something that ain’t broke.

Your  friendly local Minishop might have pointed out that  your  old  clutch  arm  is indeed a proper Mini item albeit slightly modified  -  no doubt to accommodate the normal wear in the rest of the mechanism.  There was absolutely no reason to replace it... (other than profit for the guy you bought it off).

Don’t know where  you got the advice  re  the  1/8” gap. Its wrong .. forget it.

So,as per the original advice....  remove the nuts and try again.

If the clutch still drags (grinds) take the rubber seal off the end of teh slave cylinder, have attractive assisitant press pedal to floor and check whether the slave piston is running into the C clip at teh outer end of teh slave bore.

If it is, replace the new clutch lever with the old one and you should be right.  

Cheers,  Ian
  
we were following this guide:
https://www.7ent.com/pages/article-easy-pre-verto-clutch-adjustment.html

actually it's her car, she also bought the haynes manual - but it wasn't much help either.

thanks for the advice, we'll check it out

is there an official service manual?  this car is slightly a basket of unknowns.  honestly, I wouldn't even have known anything was wrong with the clutch arm or thought of replacing it if her service shop hadn't mentioned it.

 Posted: Nov 27, 2018 11:01PM
Total posts: 1716
Last post: Oct 18, 2020
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Looks like  a  prime example of  fixing something that ain’t broke.

Your  friendly local Minishop might have pointed out that  your  old  clutch  arm  is indeed a proper Mini item albeit slightly modified  -  no doubt to accommodate the normal wear in the rest of the mechanism.  There was absolutely no reason to replace it... (other than profit for the guy you bought it off).

Don’t know where  you got the advice  re  the  1/8” gap. Its wrong .. forget it.

So,as per the original advice....  remove the nuts and try again.

If the clutch still drags (grinds) take the rubber seal off the end of teh slave cylinder, have attractive assisitant press pedal to floor and check whether the slave piston is running into the C clip at teh outer end of teh slave bore.

If it is, replace the new clutch lever with the old one and you should be right.  

Cheers,  Ian
  

 Posted: Nov 27, 2018 03:23PM
Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Presuming that picture is with the clutch not engaged as stated by others you will not get enough clutch throw with 1/8" on the end of the crank (big nuts).
Slacken those nuts off and see if you have enough clutch travel.
If you have enough at that point have someone hold the clutch to the floor and tighten the nuts up until they touch the cover then back them off slightly, they are there to prevent the clutch overthrowing itself which is a near impossible thing to do with a Mini clutch.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 27, 2018 12:33PM
Total posts: 11
Last post: Nov 28, 2018
Member since:Nov 6, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
sorry guys I was having the hardest time figuring out which site to use to share photos, can’t believe it’s this difficult in this day and age

Original questionable setup, that ran "fine":
https://pix.sfly.com/2Uzyvq

Questionable components replaced with pre-verto factory hardware:

https://pix.sfly.com/fXCqvG

Gap adjusted to 1/8" according to haynes manual:
https://pix.sfly.com/cDY0eg

 Posted: Nov 26, 2018 11:42PM
Total posts: 1716
Last post: Oct 18, 2020
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Would have been interesting to see the "unknown" clutch rod.... could it have been installed because of a problem ..and removing it has re-instated the problem???

But , yes... Alex has good advice.  My interpretation of the video is that the stop nuts seem to be stopping full travel of the clutch arm.  You will need about 15/16th travel at the top...  

Without the spring there's no need for the standard clutch adjustment. While this is not universally endorsed procedure .....without the spring, the clutch becomes "self adjusting".

Don't understand "I've adjusted the clutch pivot travel to 1/8"...."  And I can't see where you are measuring travel but an eighth doesn't sound much.... do you mean 1/8 travel for the release bearing carrier???  (I've not ever measured this).

And..."I also disengaged the limit the stop so ignore that, too..."  ???? If this refers to the overthrow nuts then it renders the video pretty useless...

Sooo, leave the spring off, remove the overthrow nuts and let us know how you get on....

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Nov 26, 2018 10:05AM
Total posts: 10232
Last post: Mar 26, 2024
Member since:Mar 24, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
GB

Take off the overthrow stop nuts (the big ones on the plunger).

Take the return spring off the top and trhow it away.

Pull the arm out so that the release bearing makes contact with the diaphragm and wind out the adusting bolt till it touches the arm.  Back it off by one flat.

Try again.

 Posted: Nov 26, 2018 09:44AM
Total posts: 11
Last post: Nov 28, 2018
Member since:Nov 6, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
We recently replaced our unknown clutch rod with a factory one. During a major wrench session over the weekend. 

Prior to putting the stock pivot arm and clevis pins, the transmission operated fine. But our local mini shop suggested the unknown arm setup be replaced with the proper one. 

After installation, we either grind or have to severely force the gear shifter. 
The transmission has no problems moving between gears when the engine is off 

Troubleshooting:
I've adjusted the clutch pivot travel to 1/8"
Bled the slave 
I've swapped between the old rod and new rod

With an 1/8" of an inch of travel shouldn't that be enough travel to disengage the transmission? 

Here are some images of the setup. I took the return spring off for the moment so ignore that. 

I also disengaged the limit the stop so ignore that, too. 

https://youtu.be/2YWBVhArKwA