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 Posted: Dec 13, 2018 10:57AM
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If you need any additional information just post back to this thread and I'll help as needed.  

Doug L.
 Posted: Dec 13, 2018 09:30AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeg
I bought my remote starting trigger-type switch with alligator clips at Sears.
Scott, I sort of answered your requests earlier, see my posts above.  I will paraphrase the information below.
<...>
There are lots of variations of this that can be done... some simpler than what I describe, some more involved and appropriate for a permanent stand.
Thank you so much for the detailed replies; they're easy to follow. I'm hoping that I'll have some time this weekend to sketch it all out in a diagram and wire something up.

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Scott | 1963 Austin Cooper | 2003 MINI Cooper S | 2018 MINI Cooper 4-door
 Posted: Dec 12, 2018 06:30AM
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My dad kept the instructions for everything he ever bought but I never saw the ones for the starter switch.  It sure would have been nice if they were in the garage when I found his switch!  I've learned a lot since then.

Doug L.
 Posted: Dec 12, 2018 05:15AM
jeg
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"MANY decades ago my father also bought a Sears switch.  Not knowing how to use it, I connected it across his Cutlass's main solenoid terminals .  When I pushed the button I watched the switch wires melt.  Live and learn... and pay dad back. "

I bought it around 20 years ago, read and kept the instructions.

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Dec 12, 2018 04:29AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeg
I bought my remote starting trigger-type switch with alligator clips at Sears.
MANY decades ago my father also bought a Sears switch.  Not knowing how to use it, I connected it across his Cutlass's main solenoid terminals .  When I pushed the button I watched the switch wires melt.  Live and learn... and pay dad back.

Scott, I sort of answered your requests earlier, see my posts above.  I will paraphrase the information below.
 
Pre-engaged remote start push button:  Use wires to connect the two terminals of a momentary contact push button switch between the threaded solenoid terminal with all the brown wires and the larger of the two separate male spade terminals on the solenoid body.  In factory wiring, there should be a brown/red wire on that terminal.  You can temporarily remove that wire if necessary when you connect the remote push button.

Pre-engaged starter connections on a test stand (minimal):  Connect the momentary push button as above.  Use HEAVY jumper cables to connect between battery (+) and the threaded solenoid terminal where all the brown wires would normally be.  Run the other half of the jumper cables from battery (-) to a bare metal bolt somewhere on the engine or transmission.  To power the ignition run a wire from the solenoid post where the brown wires would go to coil (+).  With both halves of the jumper cables connected, use the push button to operate the starter.  When you want to stop the engine remove the jumper cable from the engine block/transmission.  Do NOT leave the battery cables connected when the engine is not running (this will overheat the coil and ignition components with the simplified wiring described above).  Only connect the ground cable from the engine/transmission when you want to run the engine or bump it over on the starter.

There are lots of variations of this that can be done... some simpler than what I describe, some more involved and appropriate for a permanent stand.

Doug L.
 Posted: Dec 12, 2018 02:16AM
jeg
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I bought my remote starting trigger-type switch with alligator clips at Sears.

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Dec 11, 2018 12:47PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
Is this a pre-engaged or inertia starter?  The nature of your question suggests inertia type so that's what I will discuss below.  As usual I am long winded but my intent is only to give you all the information you need in one post.  
I just came across this thread because I'm actually trying to do the same thing—well, both things really. I need a remote start switch to perform a compression test on an engine that is out of a car AND then sometime soon, I will be looking to bench test the engine. dklawson, would you mind sharing how the instructions you posted should be modified for a pre-engaged starter?

Thanks!
Scott

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Scott | 1963 Austin Cooper | 2003 MINI Cooper S | 2018 MINI Cooper 4-door
 Posted: Nov 11, 2018 12:18PM
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Doug,
thanks for the tutoring.   I've made a remote starter switch to check compression, and bump the lump to get it to TDC so I can time it.

I've connected it incorrectly initially and warmed my switch wires to just below melting.  I've reconnected the two leads to the white small wire on the solonoid and power from the battery side. This works fine and does not warm the wires.  BTW, I purchased a door bell button as the switch initially but it was an illuminated button. This did not work. It was passing current all the time. The switch I bought was momentary contact switch and I fitted it into a small piece of 3/4" pvc pipe so it was easy to hold.  The wires were a single strand with alligator clips on both ends. I split the wire in the middle, tinned the ends and screwed them to my switch.  Bob's ya uncle. 

Thanks again Doug.

 Posted: Nov 11, 2018 08:47AM
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Mike, re-reading your question I realize I have probably given you more information than you wanted.  In my answer above I assumed you had an engine out of the car and wanted to bench test it.  Sorry.

Assuming all you wanted was a simple remote starter switch, locate the starter/solenoid terminal with all the brown wires (inertia OR pre-engaged starter).  Connect one wire from your switch there.  

On an inertia starter car locate the white/red wire on the solenoid.  Connect your other switch wire there.  You can temporarily remove the white/red wire, just put it back when done.  When you push/tap the switch the engine will turn over.

On a pre-engaged starter car you should find a red/brown wire on the solenoid.  Connect the other lead from your switch there.  As above, you can temporarily disconnect the red/brown wire, just put it back when done.

The starter switch should be a momentary contact type rated for a decent number of Amps and the wire should be 16 AWG.

Doug L.
 Posted: Nov 10, 2018 06:35PM
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If I understand you correctly, you want to start an engine with a remotely mounted solenoid... not a remote starter per the subject line.

Is this a pre-engaged or inertia starter?  The nature of your question suggests inertia type so that's what I will discuss below.  As usual I am long winded but my intent is only to give you all the information you need in one post.

The discrete solenoid must have an earth ground shared with the engine block.  Therefore, mount the solenoid on the engine or run a ground wire from the engine block to the solenoid's mounting foot.

The main power cables should be at least 4 AWG, 2 AWG would be better.  These will get warm, smaller cable will get HOT.

Assuming negative ground, run an earth cable from battery (-) to the engine block, anchoring it to one of the starter mounting bolts.

Run the "hot" cable from battery (+) to one of the large threaded terminals on the solenoid.  To be consistent with its use on the assembled car, put the hot cable on the "top" terminal... the one furthest from the solenoid mounting foot.

Run the "switched power cable" from the solenoid's bottom threaded terminal to the threaded terminal on the starter motor.

Some solenoids have two spade lugs, others have one.  (I am not including in this count all of the brown wire connections). 

Put a 1/4" female spade terminal on the end of a 16 AWG wire.  Connect the spade terminal to the male spade on the solenoid.  On solenoids with 2 spade terminals this will be the LARGER spade.  You do not need to use the smaller spade terminal (if present) unless you have a ballast ignition system.  Write back if you need to use it.

You have a choice.  You can install a switch... or not. 
If you do not want a switch, just strip a bit of insulation off the free end of the 16 AWG wire.  When you want to spin the engine, touch that stripped wire to the threaded solenoid terminal with the hot cable from the battery.  The engine will spin as long as the wire is held in place.  

If you want a switch, connect a second 16 AWG wire to the "hot" solenoid terminal with the battery cable.  Connect your switch between the two pieces of 16 AWG wire.  When the switch is on/closed, the engine will turn over on the starter.
  

Doug L.
 Posted: Nov 10, 2018 04:05PM
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I need to make up a remote starter so I can do a compression check and some other stuff on the engine. Where do I connect my leads. On the solenoid battery terminal? Both big lugs?  My remote starter wires are getting real hot.