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 Posted: Oct 14, 2018 12:28PM
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Nice! I never thought of that PVC method. The rivets, good idea. I used trim adhesive and so far, so good. The trim was hardest over the seagull-crap original welds and 50 years of rust, but I managed. 

 Posted: Oct 12, 2018 02:07PM
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Trim is now riveted in place!
the hard part was getting down onto and up from the garage floor.

now it is onto the pipes (brake and hydro lines) and the rear subframe.
first task is to elevate the car onto jack stands with access to the entire
lenght of the underside.
i am sure I will have more questions.

thanks everyone for your tips and tricks.

Roger Williams
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
 Posted: Oct 11, 2018 11:34AM
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If you used the fluted trim you can rivet them just through the bottom side so they cannot be seen.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Oct 11, 2018 10:43AM
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Trim installed!
i did the install myself.
no heat gun or hairdryer used.

i did buy 1/2” pvc pipe conduit and placed the coiled trim inside and let sit for several days.
i was then able to easily pull trim from conduit and press onto seam.
no problem going around any of the curves.

next I will install rivets at each end of the wheel well.

Roger Williams
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
 Posted: Sep 12, 2018 07:29AM
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Yes drill them out but they usually spin around so if they are close to finished paintwork i have a scraper with a sharp edge and sometimes use it to shear them off with one or two good hits. You could also hold them on the backside with some pliers as they are accessible unlike some of the flares rivets.


If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 12, 2018 07:18AM
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Just inspected my wheel arch and did see the old rivets.
will I need to remove them?
i assume I could use a drill.

Roger Williams
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
 Posted: Sep 12, 2018 06:44AM
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CA
Right you are Spitz, rivet after installation or your chrome strip might be two miles back on the thruway

just a bitch of a job to install

malcolm, you never told me to start at the back and go forward ?

Big AL

[email protected]

Niagara Ontario Canada

 Posted: Sep 11, 2018 08:53AM
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CA

I would not be using a heat gun.  Too much heat.  The hair dryer is the right tool to use....and patience.

I also riveted the fluted type after installation on the PUP.  I found that my foot would kick off the trim getting out once in a while

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Sep 11, 2018 07:33AM
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For the most part they stay in place with nothing added. I have seen body seam clips used but when you install them they scratch the paint and as the seam trim holds water i don't use them.
If needed i use a few dabs of clear silicone to hold them in place with some masking tape until dry mainly on the two bends and two ends.
Regarding the water that is held in all the nooks and crannies on a Mini i use a leaf blower to get it all off the car especially in the side opening window aperture. 

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 10, 2018 05:56PM
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Chuck’s MM URL references the use of rivets.
I see no reference to clips as used on the body seam finishing strips.
please confirm.

Roger Williams
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
 Posted: Sep 10, 2018 03:59PM
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US
Malsal nailed it.  That sharp curve on the leading edge of the rear wheel well requires a deft hand with a hot blow drier or heat gun.  Lean on it for a second too long and the stuff starts to melt and turn brown.  Take your time getting it up to heat.  The rest isn't that hard, just be patient.

 Posted: Sep 10, 2018 02:47PM
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I used the rolled one-piece and replaced both sides on my '68 instead of chancing the fender flare route. Somehow I feel this is a foreign knock-off, but whatever. I used my daughter's old disgarded 1,000 watt hair dryer for the bends. The trim went on ok with patience and a little, not much, heat but any rust in the way caused fitment issues. I suppose if you have the energy to grind away any rust and not grind away original welds it just takes patience, a good whack with an open hand and a reluctant hair dryer. it's a cheap fix and makes the car look much better.

 Posted: Sep 10, 2018 01:50PM
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As you have to start from the rear i find the hardest bend is usually the first rear curve from the wheel well to the sill.
As it is shipped in a tight roll it helps if you can straighten out the trim for a few days before you install it.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 10, 2018 12:13PM
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US
One piece fluted, and everything you ever wanted to know about installing:
https://www.minimania.com/Factory_trim_molding_installation___GFZ107___GZF105

 Posted: Sep 10, 2018 12:06PM
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CA
OK...wasn't sure of the cut-off date.
Yes...three piece very nice.  The rolled type are a beach to install !

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Sep 10, 2018 10:39AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitz
I think the "proper" trim for a 66S is the three piece formed set for each side.  NLA

A 66 S had the plastic one-piece fluted trim. 

Shame because the three-piece stainless trim is nice looking, but hard to find a complete set (and oddly, nobody is reproducing these parts). 

 Posted: Sep 10, 2018 09:52AM
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Just viewed the Somerford Mini site.
they indicate :
- 3-piece trim 1959-1965 approx
- 1-piece fluted trim 1965 approx-1969

so... “approx” does not help, NLA does not help so I guess I’ll go with the 1-piece fluted trim.

Roger Williams
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export
 Posted: Sep 10, 2018 07:55AM
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CA
I think the "proper" trim for a 66S is the three piece formed set for each side.  NLA

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Sep 10, 2018 06:51AM
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What is the proper trim for a 1966 Cooper S?

MM has a standard non-fluted (gfz107) and a deluxe fluted (gfz105).

thanks

Roger Williams
1966 Austin Cooper S
LHD, WET, Personal Export