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 Distributor Help

 Created by: scottwkurth
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 Posted: Jun 15, 2018 03:33AM
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US
Great!  Thanks for posting what you found.  I'm glad you sorted this out so quickly and are ready for the road.

Doug L.
 Posted: Jun 14, 2018 05:32PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
Visit my file storage area using the link below.  Download and read over the "Static Timing" PDF.  Do not trust marks and notes... set the static timing.
https://www.sites.google.com/site/purlawson/home/files

Remove the plug for cylinder #1 (water pump end of block).  Remove the rocker cover and turn the engine over by hand in the normal direction of rotation.  Stop when the timing marks line up.  Grab the rocker arms for cylinder #1.  If you can wiggle them, stop... the engine is at/near TDC for #1 on its firing stroke.  If the rocker arms are tight and cannot be wiggled, turn the engine one more complete revolution until the timing marks line up again.  Stop and confirm that rocker arms for cylinder #1 can be wiggled and the top of piston #1 is visible through the spark plug hole.
Doug, thank you for the advice and the incredibly helpful static timing procedure. Your writing was infinitely clearer for a novice to understand and follow than any of my shop manuals. Have you considered writing a whole service manual? I'd buy it...

I followed your procedure almost as written. I had a hunch that the timing was still set correctly but I must have made some other error. Until I verified the simple stuff I decided to not actually alter the timing. Instead, I used your procedure to verify that I was in the right ballpark on timing, check that I hadn't accidentally put the rotor back 180 degrees out of phase, and that the rotor was pointing to the proper plug lead.

During that process I found my error. When I had attempted to reset the points gap that first evening, I didn't have the follower at the highest point of the cam lobe so when I set the gap I made it enormous. I was probably rushing plus I was having a hard time getting everything in the right place in my glasses. Once I set it properly (and quadruple checked it), the car turned right over and is running like a champ again.

Thank you again!

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Scott | 1963 Austin Cooper | 2003 MINI Cooper S | 2018 MINI Cooper 4-door
 Posted: Jun 13, 2018 08:34AM
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Visit my file storage area using the link below.  Download and read over the "Static Timing" PDF.  Do not trust marks and notes... set the static timing.
https://www.sites.google.com/site/purlawson/home/files

Remove the plug for cylinder #1 (water pump end of block).  Remove the rocker cover and turn the engine over by hand in the normal direction of rotation.  Stop when the timing marks line up.  Grab the rocker arms for cylinder #1.  If you can wiggle them, stop... the engine is at/near TDC for #1 on its firing stroke.  If the rocker arms are tight and cannot be wiggled, turn the engine one more complete revolution until the timing marks line up again.  Stop and confirm that rocker arms for cylinder #1 can be wiggled and the top of piston #1 is visible through the spark plug hole.

Put the distributor in the block and turn it COUNTERCLOCKWISE.  Now turn it SLOWLY clockwise until you see the points open.  Stop and look at what position on the dizzy cap the rotor is pointing.  Put the spark plug wire for cylinder #1 in that location.  Place the other wires on the cap in the order 1-3-4-2 going COUNTERCLOCKWISE around the cap.

With that done, go through the static timing steps in the PDF and try again to start your engine.

Doug L.
 Posted: Jun 13, 2018 07:00AM
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Last night I decided to finally replace the broken vacuum advance on my distributor (45D). It has had a hole in it for quite some time but I wanted to get it replaced for the road trip to MMW. Despite my careful efforts not to create a new problem while solving another, the car will no longer start.

I took photos and marked the location of the distributor relative to the pinch bolt and the rotor position before I removed it. I had to disconnect and move the coil out of the way to get at the two bolts to remove the distributor and clamp.

Once out I removed the two screws securing the vacuum advance unit and tilted it out as the workshop manual suggested. Getting the new unit to slot onto the peg on the back of the base plate was not as easy. I had to remove the rotor and the two outer screws that secure the base plate to the distributor body. Then, after several tries and a little manhandling, I was able to get it connected. I referred to my photos on rotor position relative to the dog gear and reassembled the internals.

 

I set the rotor position to the right location and reinstalled it in the engine. When I went to start it, it barely cranked and didn’t even attempt to turn over. I opened it back up and it looked like the points gap had closed up from all of the pulling on the plate. I set the gap to 0.010” because that is what I found via a hasty internet search (although with a clearer mind this morning it looks like it is supposed to be between 0.014” and 0.016”). I replaced the cap and tried to crank it over again. Nothing. It at least cranks normally now but there is no firing at all. I double-checked all the leads and they are secure. I left the leads connected to plugs and the cap while working so I know that the leads are still connected in the right order.

Clearly I screwed something up in the process of what should have been an easy repair, but what? Can anyone provide some suggestions on what / where to start to track this down?

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Scott | 1963 Austin Cooper | 2003 MINI Cooper S | 2018 MINI Cooper 4-door