Rover MINI WORKSHOP MANUAL Publication Number RCL 0193ENG - 2nd Edition dated 11/98 shows the hub nut torque spec of 260 Nm. which is approximaetly 190 ft-lbs.

Kelley

The spacers aren't hardened...

I have also seen the noses of CVs snap - okay, they were on racing Minis, but we all attack corners with vigour.

you are saying that the hard steel of the spacer is compressible?

Hard to believe that going from , say, 150 ft lbs to 200 ft lbs or even more would do that

I would think the threads of the nut would deform long , long before the spacer would get thinner

The HBOL has always listed two different torques, though the last dark blue edition isn't absorbent enough to be genuinely useful - best to just sit on it to prevent piles on cold concrete.

Too much torque can have unwanted effects on the wheel bearing spacer.

I did think it was odd for the two different torque specs. I have to check but I think it was written in the latest Haynes manual. They listed 2 hole and 4 hole. 

I too have stood on the end of the wrench to either unloosened or tighten the castellated nut .

Not enough shoulder strength anymore and/or need a longer wrench or pipe on the end.

this topic seems to come up a  lot - how much torque on the nut? Can there ever be too much?

so.....

has anyone ever actually broken a nut, the threaded end of the shaft, a socket, or a wrench?

Excluding Chinese steel, shouldn't the answer be no?

Codswallop - I fear that the 195 lbft is a misprint that has become lore.

The 2-hole CV is identical to the 1-hole CV except for the crossdrilling.  If 150 lbft is enough for one, it's enough fo the other.

THE most important thing to consider is the extra torque applied to line the castellated nut up with the next hole to insert the split pin - if you've torqued a 1-hole CV to 195 and then gone another 60° as the worst case scenario to line up the holes, you're potentially up in the 300s !!

With a 2-hole the most you'll ever have to add is 30°, which is around 200 from memory.

There are two different torque settings. One hole on the CV is 150lbs. Two hole on the CV is 195lbs. I don't think there should be any play when you mate up the drive flange and the CV joint before the collar and nut is applied.

Don't knock the 12" long wrench with a heffy assistant standing on the end...exactly what we did when my right front wheel bearings blew on Day 68 of our 70 day drive around Australia.

PHOTO - breaking the torque on the castle nut. 

Stick-in-a-bucket is a politer version of the actual expression...  I'll leave you you work out what rhymes with stick...

Thank you for the " stick in a bucket" description of what is unacceptable. That answered my initial question. Thank you for the torque feedback as well. Thing is, I was only wondering about axle to CV play, not CV to hub play, of which there should be none. Again, thanks to everyone for their suggestions!

“Stick in a bucket loose” will be saved for future use. Right up there with “just heat it till it’s all glow e”

150+.... torque to 150 then continue tightening till the next split pin holes align....

Before I acquired a torque wrench I would just apply my 11 stone to the end of my 1 foot(ish) socket drive (i.e. stand on it

Cheers, Ian

NO !!!!
Disc CVs need to be torqued to 150 lbft or you will encounter problems.

The driveshaft does sometimes feel a bit not-tight in the CV, but I don't worry about it unless it's stick-in-a-bucket loose.  

My guess is if it doesn't feel right it's not and since the axles are off the car might as well get it right. As far as the castle nut this is a Cooper S and should be closer to 150 to 165 lb plus or minus

60 lbs torque on the castlated nut on the end of the CV at the hub.

1966 Austin Van, 1275, rod change box, pot joint outputs. I'm doing a front drum to 7 1/2 disc brake conversion. I changed the outer CV joints to the larger Cooper S disc type using new geniune SKF CV's. I'm noticing a bit of play in the outer splines, which I didn't feel with the drum CV's in place. Is this a major concern? The shafts aren't back in the car yet, so no great loss if this is an issue. Thanks!