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 Posted: Nov 10, 2022 08:24PM
Total posts: 26
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Member since:Apr 17, 2012
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The first step is admitting that there is a problem. I have a problem out in the garage. I want someone to help me put this guy back together. I live in South Kona Hawaii and have an apartment to offer as trade for working with me on this project. If you think we should talk - leave a note.

Casey

 Posted: Jun 18, 2018 02:50PM
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Attitude. I got back after a month on other tasks, looked it over and in less than 10 minutes later it was laying on the floor. Fresh eyes.

 Posted: Jun 5, 2018 04:02PM
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US
No need to be so formal, call me Jer.  What was holding up the radiator removal?

 Posted: Jun 5, 2018 03:54PM
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Thanks crock7,

I'll see what my machinist thinks.

Casey

 Posted: Jun 5, 2018 03:50PM
 Edited:  Jun 5, 2018 05:05PM
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US
The only reference to specs on 7.5" discs that I could find in my manuals was on run-out; .05MM or .002".  Nothing on minimum thickness.  But, the brake disc advert on the Mini Mania site says 8mm (.31") minimum rotor thickness (.375” when new). Hope that helps.

 Posted: Jun 4, 2018 01:54PM
 Edited:  Jun 4, 2018 01:57PM
Total posts: 26
Last post: Nov 10, 2022
Member since:Apr 17, 2012
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I'm back. Spent some time on the continent (US mainland) restoring my attitude. Ten minutes in I had the radiator out on the floor. We put a "Tropics" fan system on and they aren't as friendly when removing the radiator. But still a nice win. I got the brake rotors off but one needed the impact wrench set to 120 PSI. Now my machine shop wants to know the specs. This is where you're here. Where do I get specs for the standard 1964 7.5" S rotors? I just got my first rear wheel cylinder on. Those Cir clips are a stinker. My guru mentioned poor sizing standards on the new ones so I tuned up the angle of the dangle and 3 minutes later the first one is on. I'm going with a set of almost new shoes as it takes a week to get them here in Kona. I'm off to town right now to get some more blasting sand to make the rotors look as good as the reworked drums. Rotor Specs PLEASE.

 Posted: Apr 12, 2018 03:10PM
Total posts: 332
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Member since:Jul 13, 2017
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Welcome back Low Gear. We haven’t met as I’m a novice, but you seem determined to get your Mini running again and it’s an interesting thread you have going. You’ve inspired me to dig deeper into my little trouble machine. Someone in its past was quite a bodger. Keep it up Low Gear, you’ll get there. Cheers, Derwood (aka Darren )

 Posted: Apr 9, 2018 11:28AM
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Lower radiator support bracket bolt removed?  

 Posted: Apr 9, 2018 01:55AM
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Thanks but something is going to have to move.

 Posted: Apr 8, 2018 09:29PM
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You need to scrape some skin and remove the fan first...........

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Apr 8, 2018 07:21PM
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Just getting around to pulling the radiator. I'm starting to think it can't be done on this car without moving the engine 1/2 inch to the right. It has one of those snazzy tropics fan blades. I've got every part disconnected from every other part and the only thing I can get out is the upper shroud. Anybody got some secrets?

 Posted: Nov 17, 2017 09:26AM
Total posts: 13978
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CA

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Nov 11, 2017 06:41PM
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Hey, I got the other one to spit too. I've gone back in, on both, and got them working. I'v put new fuel lines on the list. The neat braided ones. Apparently they don't last forever. Only 53 years and they're already starting to have problems.

So I'm going with Doug L. that they are HS carbs. You know the left one, the lid, does have a brass seat for the needle valve. I guess I didn't remember seeing one on the right lid although the tops are different. The seals on the needles looked fine and both are metering fuel now.

Perhaps tomorrow is lift-off day.

 Posted: Nov 11, 2017 06:14PM
Total posts: 9241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowGear
The right carb is spitting gas. Well after three cleanings it's still spitting gas. OK, not as much but I'm inside a garage. Needle valve looks good although I'm surprised there's no real seat for it. 
From your descriptions I think you have confused terminology.

Have we established if you have an HS or HIF carb?  I am guessing you have HS carbs which have the float bowl on the side of the carb body.  The float valve is in the LID of the float bowl.  It does have a seal.  It is either a conical metal tip on the moving part of the valve coming to rest in the fixed seat or a Viton/rubber tip on the same part coming to rest against the seat.  There are also aftermarket float valves that use ball bearings to make the seal.  

The needle that does not have a seat/seal is the metering/mixture needle on the bottom of the large vacuum piston.  

If you don't have a manual yet (Mini specific or for the carbs) visit the Burlen website and read through their tech articles on how the carbs work and how to adjust them.  Maybe start with the link below.
//sucarb.co.uk/technical-hs-type-carburetter-description-adjustments

Doug L.
 Posted: Nov 11, 2017 05:24PM
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those dial it fuel regulators diaphrams crap out and either harden and prevent fuel from flowing or rot and do nothing.  Open it, or replace it if you need one.

 Posted: Nov 11, 2017 03:00PM
Total posts: 26
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I thought I'd like to hear it run again before putting it up on stands to pull the brakes apart. Maaannnnn, that's a strong odor of gasoline.

Yup. The right carb is spitting gas. Well after three cleanings it's still spitting gas. OK, not as much but I'm inside a garage. Needle valve looks good although I'm surprised there's no real seat for it. I'm thinking the $9 regulator I put in there 15 years ago to stop this very thing has gotten confused. I saw a really snazzy one at the SAMOA (Seattle Area Mini Owner's Association) reunion this summer that had a pressure gauge too. I wonder where I'd get one of those.

 Posted: Oct 23, 2017 04:07PM
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Mini City

 Posted: Oct 23, 2017 03:53AM
Total posts: 9241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowGear
I can't find the second air cleaner housing wing nut and washer. Any ideas?
I made the ones on my car because the the ones that came on it seemed a tad bit short.

I would have to measure again but I think I took 1/2" diameter aluminum round stock and turned the OD down a few thousandths to fit through the holes in the air filter housing cover.  After cutting to the length I tapped both ends 1/4-20.  I took a long 1/4-20 set screw, applied Loctite to it and threaded it into one end of the aluminum rod.  That was followed by a flat washer more Loctite, and a 1/4-20 wing nut.  I believe that for the sealing washer I just got an appropriately sized nylon oil drain seal from the local parts store.  This has worked well for me for 15+ years.

Doug L.
 Posted: Oct 22, 2017 03:57PM
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It's alive. I've heard it run. Video to follow on YouTube soon. I ran out of gas. New filter looks pretty clean after a cup or two.

I can't find the second air cleaner housing wing nut and washer. Any ideas?

 Posted: Oct 8, 2017 06:01PM
Total posts: 26
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Wow. Let me catch up.

It's a 1964 1275 Cooper S with dry suspension.

The brake booster was moved inside a long time ago.

The carbs were super cleaned by an expert on the mainland and haven't had two gallons of fuel ran through them. We did have problems with too much fuel pressure when we first fitted the Facet pump but put an adjustable regulator up in the engine compartment.

I'm returning the plastic bodied fuel filter because I just a bit concerned about broken stuff and gasoline leaked all over the boot. I like the glass filter systems too but we're back to the ghost of broken fuel parts in the boot. I play with small tractors and the glass bowels will also show you water in the fuel. Better to find it there rather than on a steep slope with an unconscious machine.

The rear wiper was easy. The triple front wiper whipped me and I went to a dual speed twin wiper with parking.

A couple of ideas that have come to me are A. neopreme wetsuit and II. bubblewrap. I'm concerned about heat though. I'd just lay it back there maybe zip tied to the battery anchor. I've mounted a few items with sections of garden hose and zip ties as well. I'll have a better idea of the limitations or hazards once the engine has ran for an hour or two and see if it's warm to the touch. It did go some 5000 miles just laying back there stuck in an inner tube.

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