Starting and misfire
Created by: Derramax
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Aug 15, 2017 08:07PM | mur | |
Aug 15, 2017 07:12PM | specialist | Edited: Aug 15, 2017 08:39PM |
Aug 15, 2017 06:29PM | Rosebud | |
Aug 15, 2017 02:58PM | malsal | |
Aug 15, 2017 01:20PM | Derramax | |
Aug 15, 2017 09:54AM | Derramax | |
Aug 13, 2017 07:01PM | Rosebud | |
Aug 13, 2017 06:34PM | malsal | |
Aug 13, 2017 10:07AM | Derramax | |
Aug 12, 2017 07:05PM | Rosebud | |
Aug 12, 2017 10:26AM | malsal | |
Aug 11, 2017 08:46PM | mur | |
Aug 11, 2017 08:22PM | Rosebud | |
Aug 11, 2017 05:47PM | Derramax | |
Aug 11, 2017 05:07PM | Rosebud | Edited: Aug 11, 2017 07:47PM |
Aug 11, 2017 02:44PM | malsal | |
Aug 11, 2017 01:05PM | Derramax | |
Aug 11, 2017 10:46AM | Derramax | |
Aug 11, 2017 10:23AM | Aerkuld | |
Aug 11, 2017 10:17AM | mur |
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This specialist person has neither experience nor relevant knowledge to this car's issues and nothing he posts has any value. He has in the past been banned several times. I have posted more or less the same warning on many threads as it does the mini community no good if someone who genuinely wants to learn happens upon a post of his and presumes it is from a knowledgeable person.
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glad you found the problem, hope you fix it soon and start enjoying your mini. Have fun, be safe out there mate.
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Quote:
My guess would be head gasket failure also, as suggested do a compression check and get back to us with the numbers.
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Now would be a good time to upgrade for sure.
Before you do that i would do a cylinder leak down test to see where that 20 lbs of compression is going on number 4. Compression's should be in the 10 per cent range of each other that one is just outside that and a leak down test will reveal where the loss is as it could be rings, valves, bores who knows.
I would use the best head gasket you can find along with the best valve guide seals.
Remove all the studs out of the block and make sure it is level and flat by using something perfectly flat and some wet/dry sandpaper along with some lubricant if you are doing it with the engine in the car. Also make sure you get the machine shop to skim the head to make sure that is flat and level, you will see a burn area between the two cylinders you need to remove that with the skim.
You may as well re seat all the valves and check the tolerances on the guides too while you have it apart.
Before you do that i would do a cylinder leak down test to see where that 20 lbs of compression is going on number 4. Compression's should be in the 10 per cent range of each other that one is just outside that and a leak down test will reveal where the loss is as it could be rings, valves, bores who knows.
I would use the best head gasket you can find along with the best valve guide seals.
Remove all the studs out of the block and make sure it is level and flat by using something perfectly flat and some wet/dry sandpaper along with some lubricant if you are doing it with the engine in the car. Also make sure you get the machine shop to skim the head to make sure that is flat and level, you will see a burn area between the two cylinders you need to remove that with the skim.
You may as well re seat all the valves and check the tolerances on the guides too while you have it apart.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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In order to get the starter to actually turn I had to move the car back and forth while in gear. Maybe the starter motor is going bad. Had to move the engine manually between each cylinder tested. Anyways, i was able to do a compression test. 1-180, 2-0, 3-0 and 4-160. Looks like a head gasket is in my future. It's there any other things I should take care of while I take the head off? Just use a standard gasket or is there an 'upgrade?' Valve stem seals? Does the fact the car has higher compression pistons make a difference?
Is now the time to upgrade the head and cam?
Is now the time to upgrade the head and cam?
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I put in a new battery and still click....... click........ click. I finally discovered the back plate on the starter was loose. That can't help. Unfortunately I don't have a socket that small so if to the store I go.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derramax
Are Smith gauges really this wonkey.
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No Smiths gauges are not all like that.
The speedo differences usually occur when an engine and gear box has been replaced with one from a different car. Usually no one bothers to change out the gear ratios for the speedometer. Guessworks is a good site to determine what you have and what you need ratio wise.
The speedo differences usually occur when an engine and gear box has been replaced with one from a different car. Usually no one bothers to change out the gear ratios for the speedometer. Guessworks is a good site to determine what you have and what you need ratio wise.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Quick update. I had the battery on the charger and it said it was fully charged. I turned the key and the engine turned slowly for a few seconds and then click......click.........click and the gauge on the charger went all the was down to 25% charge. I definitely feel the battery is toast. I need to get a new one. I'll take my old battery with me since the places around here offer free battery testing and i can size a new one up.
Maybe, just maybe that is my problem.?.?.?
Oh and head gaskets. Is this a common problem area on these engines? I know overheating can cause the gasket to blow. I'm a little suspect of my temp gauge as I am my speedo and gas gauge. It will be at 90 and then move to 120 and then somewhere in between and then 90. The PO told me its always been like that and as long as it dose not get abnormally high its okay. True? Are Smith gauges really this wonkey. My speedo gets more accurate the faster I go and at 70 it is dead on but at 25 i'm really doing like 17.
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions
Maybe, just maybe that is my problem.?.?.?
Oh and head gaskets. Is this a common problem area on these engines? I know overheating can cause the gasket to blow. I'm a little suspect of my temp gauge as I am my speedo and gas gauge. It will be at 90 and then move to 120 and then somewhere in between and then 90. The PO told me its always been like that and as long as it dose not get abnormally high its okay. True? Are Smith gauges really this wonkey. My speedo gets more accurate the faster I go and at 70 it is dead on but at 25 i'm really doing like 17.
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosebud
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
My guess would be head gasket failure also, as suggested do a compression check and get back to us with the numbers.
The exhaust leak sound that Derramax described may just be the sound of an A series running on 2 cylinders.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I have had alternators fail and in my experience the 1-2-3 will keep the engine running till the battery is almost totally completely dead. I have a hard time connecting the misfire to the poor starter performance without it being a serious valvetrain failure.
For all we know the North Koreans messed up the dash wiring of your car to harsh the vibe here in the western world. Some minis use the green light for both left and right signal indication and the amber lamps are for oil pressure and oil filter bypass switch, while other minis use the amber indicators. No minis were shipped to North Korea so they would not have a large sample to plan their vibe harshing attack. Maybe they just went with bumping the ignition lamp out of its socket. What a bunch of jerks.
I heard that they have spies trained to chew through the head gasket between 2 and 3. They travel only at night, sneak into people's garages and using only a crescent wrench remove the head and use their top teeth to perforate the gasket. Truly diabolical.
For all we know the North Koreans messed up the dash wiring of your car to harsh the vibe here in the western world. Some minis use the green light for both left and right signal indication and the amber lamps are for oil pressure and oil filter bypass switch, while other minis use the amber indicators. No minis were shipped to North Korea so they would not have a large sample to plan their vibe harshing attack. Maybe they just went with bumping the ignition lamp out of its socket. What a bunch of jerks.
I heard that they have spies trained to chew through the head gasket between 2 and 3. They travel only at night, sneak into people's garages and using only a crescent wrench remove the head and use their top teeth to perforate the gasket. Truly diabolical.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derramax
Could the electrical issues be related to 2 suddenly dead cylinders? Could it be possible to drop 2 cylinders at the same time?
Perhaps your 2 dead cylinders were the result of the low battery missing issue? Weird that it would be just those 2 cylinders, though. Mine felt like someone had dumped a bucked of water on the distributor—I doubt I could have pinpointed it to any specific cylinder(s). That's why I initially suspected a bad coil or dizzy. I'm trying a new high-output alternator first, then a new battery if the new alt doesn't solve the problem. Good luck. Oh, and I'm guessing your mileage didn't double when you were running on 2 cylinders.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
The bulb has to work for the system to charge, sometimes they become dislodged from the socket in the back of the speedo and still work but do not shine through the red lens.
My guess would be head gasket failure also, as suggested do a compression check and get back to us with the numbers.
My guess would be head gasket failure also, as suggested do a compression check and get back to us with the numbers.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
My guess would be head gasket failure also, as suggested do a compression check and get back to us with the numbers.
The exhaust leak sound that Derramax described may just be the sound of an A series running on 2 cylinders.
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The bulb has to work for the system to charge, sometimes they become dislodged from the socket in the back of the speedo and still work but do not shine through the red lens.
My guess would be head gasket failure also, as suggested do a compression check and get back to us with the numbers.
My guess would be head gasket failure also, as suggested do a compression check and get back to us with the numbers.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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If you mean the red ignition light then mine has never worked. I assumed the bulb was burned out.
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Head gasket, Oh boy!
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I would suggest you do a compression check too. I once had a problem similar to this. Sounded just like an exhaust leak, but couldn't find any leaks anywhere on the system. Found the problem was the head gasket had blown through between cylinders two and three.
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I would carefully check the valvetrain and then do a compression test before doing anything else.