Your air leak may well be right there, it does not take much miss alignment to create a leak at the gasket. Loosen them slightly so the manifold will move up and down until you find the center position then bolt it up tight. Check for air/vacum leaks first with the carb spray while it is running. When re building the carbs the 1.25" SU's have to be reamed out to accomodate a larger shaft as there are no bushings in these carbs, this is only necessary if the spindles are very worn you may be able to get away with just stock spindles. I suspect you have a massive air leak somewhere so fix that problem first and go through the items on the previous thread i posted.

No the manifold did not have locating rings in them. It would idle but it would not go down.

Did you block off the two crankcase vent tubes or connect them together at least ? You need some play in the linkage or they will bind up and your carbs will not seat correctly especially if the linkage is too long. Spray around the carbs with carb cleaner and if the revs rise you have a vacum leak somewhere. Does the manifold have locating rings in the inlet ports ? If not you may have an air leak there. Before you re build them you should have them running somewhat decent so you have a starting point otherwise you may end up with more problems.

Thanks, just wanted to be sure you did not have a vacuum leak there.

Steve

Update there was no play at all on the linkage side to side not a bit. On the throttle shaft there is some play. I will post pictures tomorrow because the carb is also black with carbon on the inside and it has a floating needle. Can I sand the inside to remove the carbon deposits? If not what is a good cleaner? I used carb cleaner but it does not remove it. I also noticed that the butterfly has some brass welded on to it so it would close on its own. Do you think I should buy a rebuild kit before I put it back into the car?

I just put teflon pipe tape on the plugs and tightened them but I was assuming 
it would go all the way in if I did

Did you remove the screw in plugs in the cross over tube on manifold dope with gasket sealer and tighten them down?

Steve

Hmm, thanks I will try this. I wish I had the money to buy new or refurbished ones :(

To start with you need to connect the two brass tubes together with a piece of hose (they come out of the carbs at a 45 degree angle) as they will create an air leak and were originally connected to the crancase breather system on whatever car they came off. Yes a Midget set up is longer as i stated before they run on 6 inch centers as apposed to the Mini on 5 or 5.5 inch ?? centers, loosen the linkage at one of the carbs and see if you have any play in the linkage left to right. If all that fails take off the springs on the linkage and see if there is any play up and down in the actual throttle shafts, if so it will run a high idle no matter what you do. Also check the fast idle screws on the choke quadrants to see if they are touching as that will also cause a high idle.

Happy New Year to Everyone!  Well I got everything installed but I could not get the car to idle lower maybe it would idle at 1000 to 1500 rpm ( I do not have a tach). It would not go any lower I removed the throttle stop screws and the accelerator cable and the idle is still the same. The pistons on the carbs fall freely and also go up freely. My only thought is that maybe the linkage shaft is long and it pushes against the side of the carb linkage and binds? Does anybody know for sure if the linkage for the midget 1.25" twin SU's is longer than the one that goes into the Mini? Any Help is appreciated

Thanks guys I ordered a spacer and a heat shield and a cable bracket. I will figure it out once those parts come in and if I need to shorten the linkage.

The "extra" connectors are actually overflow outlets and they do not need to be connected but just left open. Those are not actually Mini float lids but they will work i would attach a length of tube to each one so if they do leak over it will not run onto the hot exhaust. The spacing of the carbs is different on Mini's to Sprite/MG's they are set at 5.5 inches and the others ar 6 inches i believe. You are also going to need an accelerator cable bracket which attaches in the hole in the top of the manifold.

As they say a pic is worth a 1000 words. First the spacers, plastic insulators are way to thick a mini uses 5/16" thick spacers. Sprite and mini carb spacing left to right are different. You may have to remove the spring bar and install the heat shields and figure weather to redrill or file the holes to remount the bar. If the linkage is to long shorten the shaft a little at a time till it frees up is to short but a length of 5/16" rod and make a new one for the choke and the throttle will be a little more of a challenge but can be done whit some 1/8" late and a drill and welder.

Steve

I got the manifold thank you. Now I tried to fit the carbs but the studs were too short so I removed the studs from the midget manifold and installed on the purchased mini manifold. Now upon installing the heat shield it would not fit because the studs are closer towards the center. Now I tried to install the carbs without the heat shield I had to tap the studs a bit to align them with the holes on the carb. Now after getting it to go in it seems that the studs are too long and the linkage is binding a bit. Here are some pictures of what is going on. Also notice that the float bowl covers have three connections on the LH carb and 2 connections on the RH carb. My analysis is that one on the RH goes in and then one goes out into the LH. The extra one on the RH goes into the extra one on the LH. Can somebody help me confirm this?

It is not supposed to be a 10 but a to 1402 Route 15 Mangilao, Guam 96913 USA

I don't really want to be difficult you offer no name and 10 1402 seems like a funny address. I'll go to the Post Office and get us a price. Your typing and spelling is as bad as mine.

Steve

Edit: OK first trip to Post Office, They would like a name and were wondering if 10 is an apartment number. The cost is $10.95 I picked up a box while there. My e amil address is

[email protected] email me your correct and complete address and we can work it out from there.  

Alex as with all Mini's who knows what gets switched around by previous owners.

I do not know if the factory put any 998's into the newer 1275 subframes (with the motor mount holes pushed forward) but did see a early 90's 998 with a 1.5 HIF on it that looked factory so would presume it had the longer engine steady.

AFAIK regarding manual Mini's after the 998 was dropped and 1275's were stock they all got the longer arm.

I will measure an auto tomorrow and check.

OK I'll get that info monday. Thanks for clearing that up.

Steve

Sorry to also get confused but I need is a manfold for a 1.25 twin SU for my 1970 MINI. You said $45 how much would shipping cost via USPS Priority Mail 10 1402 route 15 Mangilao Guam 96913 USA? I can sedn you payment via paypal.