Telescopic Shock Kit Fitting Instructions for the Morris Minor
FIGURE 3 - B
FIGURE 5 - A
1. First, to locate and identify all the component parts of this kit take a look at the illustrations to the left.
2. Loosely assemble the lower brackets (A) to the lower suspension arms , using the long 1/4"bolts and nyloc nuts . See Fig 2. Then remove the two long outer lever arm damper mounting bolts only.
3. The new upper bracket (B) locates on these two bolts and will only mount one way round. To fit this bracket it is necessary to cut a slot in the inner wing panel to allow it to pass through. See Fig 1 & 1A for the approximate positioning of this slot. It is easier to cut this slot with the vertical suspension leg disconnected. Measure carefully, taking note of the datum points from which to take your cutting dimensions, see Fig 1A.
Having cut the slot, pass the new bracket (B) through and clamp up tight with the original long damper mounting bolts and tab washers . Hang the new damper from this bracket, using the shorter of the two 3/8"bolts .
Locate the outer top angle steady (C) onto this 3/8"bolt with the 1/4"hole at the top and tighten, see figure 3. The angles are not handed and will fit either side, as will all the brackets in this kit. Using the 1/4" hole as a guide, drill through the inner wing and clamp it up tight with the short 1/4" bolt and large washer in kit. Now release the damper bolt so that it can move freely, see figure 4.
4. Look closely and you will see a small gap between the lower suspension arms, approximately where the bottom brackets will go. To prevent the arms being crushed together a small sheet steel packer is supplied in this kit. Slip one of these between the arms , as close to the tie rod as possible (Fig 2).
Assemble the lower brackets (A) around the arms with the large top hole offset towards the wheel, now connect up the lower end of the damper using 2 of the big washers either side of the damper eye, up against the lower plates. Push the brackets hard up against the tie rod eye and fully tighten the smaller 1/4" bolts only .
5. Rotate the steering lock to lock to ensure that nothing fouls on full drop and under load. It is important that the lower bump s top is actually there, and that it has a bump rubber on it!. It is not uncommon for the rubber to have rotted off, leaving just the metal bracket in place.
The final operation is to replace the wheels, lower the car to the ground and tighten the top and bottom 3/8" damper eye bolts while the car is in the "loaded" position.
6. The original lever arm units stay in position because they also act as a top suspension wish bone arm. At some time during or after fitting this kit you must disarm them as a damper. Do this by removing the lower drain plug from the lever arm units and modifying it by removing the valve assembly.
Refit the plug & top up the lever dampers only with the correct hydraulic oil, not engine oil. To do so would cause the rubber seals inside the unit to swell up and possibly jam up the mechanism, but certainly to render it unusable as a damper again.