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 Working with single bolt auto sub.

 Created by: CooperTune
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Oct 20, 2017 08:31AM
Total posts: 13978
Last post: Jan 15, 2024
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
Cars in Garage: 4
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WorkBench Posts: 1
CA
Stock manual shift mounts....not the captive nut ones.
Drilling the front hole on the left side I think it was

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Oct 20, 2017 07:55AM
Total posts: 4134
Last post: Oct 13, 2020
Member since:Oct 8, 2011
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US
Which motor mounts did you use? I won't be driving this after it's done. Better safe than sorry and it will be a rod change so extra support won't hurt. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Oct 20, 2017 07:35AM
Total posts: 13978
Last post: Jan 15, 2024
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 381
WorkBench Posts: 1
CA
When I converted mine I put the spacers between the engine and engine mount.....The engine mount then mounts flush to the sub as it should.

I've not needed to mount lower engine steadies.....I guess I'm not driving it hard enough !

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Oct 20, 2017 05:40AM
Total posts: 4134
Last post: Oct 13, 2020
Member since:Oct 8, 2011
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US
I'm once again converting an auto mini to std shift. Due to a shortage of std shift sub frames I'm converting the auto sub. I had two spacers sheared 3/8 thick 2 x 4 inches. Positioned drilled mounting holes and drilled and tapped a hole to secure the spacers to the frame. I thought about welding steel spacers in but that would make it harder to go back, not that I suspect that will happen. The auto subs also don't have the tab for the the forward facing lower dog bone. While I don't think it does a lot I did add one to this sub. Motor mounts end up being a combo of std and auto mounts or maybe auto mounts on both ends. While the mount bolt spacing is different under the water pump the rear mount bolt spacing is same as std mount. I have not checked if a rear auto mount lines up with the hat bolt holes. 

I have several late dry single bolt subs all have the lower dog bone tab broken off and will have to be repaired before powder coating. So maybe they do something. I plan to drill out a couple of the latest dog bone bushes from 5/16 to 3/8 and press them into the lower dog bone. I hope with these bushes in both dog bones the power unit will remain stable.  

Clutch pedals are on back order and I can't find the correct spring. Getting a pedal in place is one of those no fun under the dash jobs. Should finish this up next week. As with so many minis everything is harder than it should be. The spacer that holds the brake pedal in position was rusted to the shaft and getting the pin out was a out of car job. Late cars have the steering and pedal box secured by shear bolts which have to be cut off to remove the box and the lower dash pad is all in the way. Two steps back one forward. Steve (CTR)