found some 1/4" aluminum in my shop and made a couple of spacers.  Next up is  brake and clutch rigid lines from Masters and then bolt up the carb. 

Thanks for the tech support guys.

Then use the C-AHT 770.  It is able to fit with a HIF44 in a Mk1 as well.  You can see the modifications I made to the manifold
and abutment plate to fit the HIF44.  You will also note the .250" carb spacer (also NLA) - but there are several
thickness available.

As Steve says, the short thick black one on the right turning forward goes into a Tee with hoses coming from front and back crankcase breathers. The gray one is 1/4" (+/-) nylon fuel line coming off the overflow. It leads down below the car clear of any hot or spinning bits. The fuel line in (1/4" brake pipe) comes from the other side, makes a U-bend and is connected with 1/4" fuel hose.
On the back of the cone filter, you can see a rubber cap, which once covered the crankcase vent nipple but is now covering a nipple on the back of the cone filter for when I was venting the crankcase fumes into the filter. (It worked so-so.)

The black hose goes to the PCV or breathers maybe one on timing cover and one on the clutch housing. Also the C-AHT 771 intake is no longer offered. Steve (CTR)

Dan,
tell me about the hoses on the left side of the carb.  bottom fuel supply, grey? overflow?  black? 
What is the black hose for and where is it going?

I'm building a 1960 shell with a single bolt subframe obviously. 

I might need to ding the sheet metal on the bulkhead.

The mini spares intake will not work w/o a spacer as it fouls the throttle cam.  I can relieve the metal on the intake a bit, but will need a spacer at least 1/4"  


Just finished refitting the rad and 2 piece shroud. Jeez, I had to relieve the bottom section at the curved ends to get the rad to align with the mounting holes, which I had already widened a bit.

Need to search the garage for a spacer for the 6.  If I can't find one, I might just go with the 1 1/2" single. I'll have to try it out. On the first intake I had, the jet was hitting the cross brace on the bulkhead.  I guess that intake is for the later cars with the forward engine.

I tried an automatic dogbone which is about 1/2" longer.  I could not pull the engine forward enough as the diff hit the floor of the car.  I'll fit the exhaust now and then see where I'm at up top.

Last resort is to go with a 1 1/2 single like the AA had.

and somebody said size matters ...
so inlet manifold for single HS4/6 and HIF SU, carburetor up to 1380cc irrespective of state of tune ... order as C-AHT770
or inlet manifold for single HS4/6 and HIF SU, carburetor for 1380cc and over, irrespective of state of tune  ...  C-AHT771

I am running a Mk1 with remote A series 1300 (AKA 1275 GT or AA Block), all syncro 4 speed remote transmission and as the engine is over 1380cc I am running the C-AHT771 Mini Spares Inlet Manifold with a HIF44 and K&N conical filter.  NO BFH to firewall, no redrilling of holes to move the engine forward, just a little work with a rat tail file (or dremil if you prefer) and some grinding on the abutment bracket.

FITTING_INSTRUCTIONS

Pictures as requested. My car: mid 80's saloon; engine: mid 80's Metro 1275. My car has the later depressed mid-section of the cross-member. Brake and clutch lines are in original location but I raised the steel fuel line higher for clearance. Bottom of carb bowl to brake lines is very close - about half a finger thickness! Alloy manifold is from MIniSpares. Carb spacer is in place, though when installing it, the intake manifold had to be filed a bit to clear the throttle lever.  

Distance from back of head (at ports) to vertical face of firewall cross-member: 5.75" +/-
Distance from top of manifold - head studs to top of fenders (piece of wood spanning from side to side): 6.125"
Distance from mounting flange of HIF6 to top of fenders (wood slid back a bit):  3.125"
Depth of depressed section of cross-member: 2" +/-

If it still has AA Remote shifter housing will also cause fitment (engine tilting issues) as the  whole angle of the dangle "cant" pivot more than how the shifter housing is attached back behind the shifter to the body.

Rod change tranny you can get more' angle' but at what expense?   

Have seen done but also not without Body mods.
 Goodluck

HS6 carb has been my equal replacement for an 1 3/4 carb and not the Bottom long body of the HIF.

As said use a Metro manifold and or move the engine forward. If it is not hitting badly you can get away with an adjustable engine steady or lengthen the one you have. Early 90's cars used a longer stabilizer along with the re located engine mount holes.
On a friends 1275 Clubby Estate i got rid of the spacer and tweaked the throttle quadrant to clear the manifold along with an adjustable engine steady and it worked fine, i think it he used a second engine steady on the thermostat housing also. You only need to move it as much as you need otherwise you get into exhaust work as it tips the header at the Y joint upwards.

It's down to the angle of dangle of the manifold, and how deep it is.

They will fit, but you end up getting medieval on the bulkhead with a BFH.

What body are you working with? I have not been able to fit a 1275 into a pre roll up window car using a HIF 6/44. The single bolt very late sub frames 90 - 91 carb. have the mounting holes for the motor mounts moved forward 1/2 inch and a longer dog bone. My solution was using a HS 6  on a Metro intake with a single heat shield. You'd be better of with set of HS 2 s on a correct intake. Steve (CTR)  

it's a A series Austin America 1275.
and maybe that explains the issue.

To start, what engine is installed in what age of car? Later engines (A+ 1275's???) were installed about 1/2" farther forward for more clearance. I don't recall if it was different motor mounts or holes in the subframe farther forward.
I'll try to get photos and a couple of dimensions later today.

I can't fit the HIF 6 on a manifold without it touching the bulkhead and I don't have the spacer in place either.

How do you do it?  I've sourced a thin intake, thinner that the one I had previously used on this build but without the spacer, the throttle cam hits the intake.

I'm using a conical K & N clone which is tight, but the issue it the bottom back edge of the carb.