Sounds great. Shoot me an email and we can work out the details
[email protected]

if it fits it ships $5

I noticed your not any engine .060. I have a Cooper S engine in my driver which I have worn out at std., .020, .040, .060 and now running at .080. When that's done will sleeve back to std and start over. The current rage for 998 s and 1100 s is around .100 or larger. Options are almost unlimited and a proper cyl. to piston clearance and wall condition are more important than size. Steve (CTR)

That’s a better deal than all my other options. How much would it cost to ship them to Bellevue Nebraska 68123?

OK, I see that 5 word question now! I misread it as referring to line boring.  Sorry for intruding.

I have 6 new ones 36 for all 6 nos been in my bolt bin since 1985

Yes I'm hoping by the time I call the guy at the machine shop, he will have found some bolts laying around that he could use and check the line bore. Maybe that too optimistic. I'm also hoping he knows how much the cylinders were bored. I wouldn't bore ANY engine .060 over but we'll see what he says. 

My question was indeed about boring the cyls. Guess I could have started a new paragraph. A .060 over bore could be measured with a yard stick. Also the pistons should be marked. I was going to suggest if the line bore is correct having the block bore and pistons miked and if they match, honing, cleaning, cam bearings and freeze plugs. The 1100 and most 998 rods are bushed and are often over looked just like checking piston ring groove wear. It's not important. Steve (CTR)

Sixpack: by 'line-boring' they are referring to the crankshaft bearing caps, not the cylinders. When an engine is built the block is line-bored with the caps in place to ensure the main bearings are exactly in line. Otherwise when the crank is bolted in, it would flex slightly and main bearings would wear unevenly, or worse. A'60 overbore would refer to cylinders. ( just so we're clear)

Then machine it as the 998 that it is.  If you cut a slot wide enough for the strap you still retain the locating tangs.  What little you
take off is more than compensated for by the strap.  As Keith Calver says "what is possible vs what is necessary"  So yes it is possible
to spend some 200 GBP for a set of steel caps and what another 100 or so with the machinist; vs around 8GBP - 20USD for the strap kit
and then the machining ... but then I hear "road use" so all that is necessary is just the missing bolts - without the bull.

I was by Fastenal yesterday picking up hardware for front sub frames. Spent $116. on elastic stop nuts and washers all grade 8 SAE. I always like to look at their grade 9 selection. I'd be inclined to get the line bore checked before any other machine work is done. You should have no problem with over torqued bolts having none. Biggest problem with over torque is with AA type rod bolts which are 11/32 rather than 3/8. Are you planning a rebore? I have found I really like the late 998 press fit rods. Relieves issues with rebushing 1100 rods and snap rings problems. 

As for the line bore if required the bore will be restored to std housing bore size. Only the crank journals will have to do with bearing size. Have you decided which tranny you plan to use and are you keeping the floor mount starter button? Steve (CTR) 

It's just a 7/16 x 20, 2.5 inches long, right. I could just get some grade 8 bolts and call it a day, right. At least for the machine shop to check the line bore

Thanks for the info. Mine is definitely going to be for road use. I also agree that over torqued bolts would be a bad thing to put into an engine and there's really no way to tell without some pretty high end equipment which I don't have. My engine didn't come with the bolts so I think I'll just spend the extra $20 for piece of mind. The bock is at the machine shop now. I need the bolts so they can check the line bore and the measurements to see what bearings I need. Thanks for the info gents 

Having done some research into main straps for 998s, I've gone down the route of steel caps and a line bore.

The product shown is about as much use as tits on a bull...  If you machine the centre main down in the manner described (and as done for a 1275 strap) you lose your thrust bearing locating tangs, as well as drastically weakening the cap.  My the time you've had the tangs re-machined, you might as well do it properly.

I've reused bolts for years - as long as the engine hasn't obviously been abused, I see no harm in it for road use.

//www.minimania.com/part/CMS10/Classic-Austin-Mini-Cooper-850---948---998-Center-Main-Strap

Might be time to consider a center main strap - comes with two new longer bolts.

Not sure where you read the main bolts are a one time and done item. I would be concerned about any fastener that had been over torqued. There is always the ARP solution. I'm always very careful to replace main caps and hardware when stripping an engine. If you find some bolts the line bore should be checked to insure caps are from same block. Steve (CTR)

Yup. That's what I found. "Currently not available".  7ent has hardened ones on sale for $8.76 and last I checked, they had one original one left for $5. 

https://www.7ent.com/products/main-cap-bolt-998-1098-arp-sen0148-1.html

Not much help: //www.minimania.com/part/12A1910/Austin-Mini-Main-Bearing-Cap-Bolt-For-175-Mains

What's the issue with main cap bolts? One site I looked at said every time they get removed, they should be replaced but they aren't available from anywhere and mini mania sells used ones. I'm missing the ones for my 1098 completely. I found new ones on seven enterprises for $8 a piece. Those used ones are looking pretty good at $2 and some change but that just seams like a bad idea from the word go. Any opinions?