Oddball Ignition Problem
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jul 30, 2017 08:19AM | dklawson | |
Jul 30, 2017 07:58AM | Rosebud | Edited: Jul 30, 2017 08:07AM |
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Do you have an electric tach? What is it doing when the missing starts? Is it steady and slowly drops, does the needle bounce/flutter a bunch? What's it doing?
You said you overdid it with the coil. How exactly? What makes you think you did anything to damage the coil?
You are correct, the IGN warning is not for the ignition system it is there to indicate whether or not the alternator/generator is charging the battery. if you measured 12.9V at the battery with the engine running, that is really not enough. You should see a 1 to 1.5V increase over what the battery reads at rest. In your case, somewhere between 13.5V and 14V. If the battery really isn't charging up, your long hard runs could be pulling the operating voltage down low enough that you are not developing a good spark.
Are you sure you have the "right" coil for your ignition type? Is this a standard ignition system or a ballast ignition system? Have you measured the voltage on coil (+) with the ignition on and engine not running? (With the 1-2-3 dizzy you will need to run a jumper wire from coil (-) to ground to make the voltage measurement from coil (+) to ground).
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Facts: New coil, new 123 Distributer, new alternator, good battery (12.5 volts at rest, 12.9 volts while running), new wiring harness. The ignition switch is a dash mounted toggle switch. It powers up the ignition system and sends current to the fuel pump switch and starter button. Headlights, horn, etc. all have power regardless of the position of the ignition switch. There’s a light labeled “IGN” on the speedo that lights when the ignition switch is in the on position and it goes out as soon as the engine is running.
Circumstances: “Rosebud” began displaying an odd, ignition related problem—at least I think it’s ignition related about 2k miles ago after some spirited autocross driving. As I pulled into the pits it began missing and then stalled and wouldn’t start again until I let her rest for 20 minutes or so. I drove 40 miles home without issue and continued to put another 2k miles on her without a problem. I concluded it was probably the coil going bad and running hard on the track as I did pushed the coil over it’s limit. I made a mental note to swap out the coil but was in no rush because the issue hadn’t reoccured.
Yesterday after adjusting my carbs I took Rosebud for a test run and again pushed her hard. Soon after, the missing and stalling returned. I let her rest a bit, she started up and the trip home was uneventful. I immediately ordered a new coil.
This morning as I gently drove into town, the missing and stalling began immediately. I limped home, stalling and restarting several times. I did however notice a few things that leads me to believe it isn’t necessarily the coil that’s causing the problem.
As she begins to miss, the IGN light flickers, so I assume it’s actually an ALT light.
When I turn the ignition switch OFF when she stalls and ON again to restart, the IGN light remains off and the starter button is dead. After a couple of seconds I try again and everything is normal; IGN light on, starter button has power and the car starts.
Given the above, I’m thinking the problem might just be a bad ignition switch. The thing that has me puzzled is why it seems to be associated with hard driving (with the exception of this morning’s drive). Anyone have any other ideas?
Thanks!
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