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 Posted: Jul 28, 2017 08:19AM
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CA
I would check both sides, especially after finding a worn bit on the right side.

 Posted: Jul 28, 2017 04:40AM
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If your car is LHD it could be the inner joint in the steering rack. The joint is underneath the bellows/gaiters check for play there.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jul 27, 2017 03:36PM
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Thanks will do on friday.if this is the problem and only on the right side would you also do the other side to?

 Posted: Jul 27, 2017 03:12PM
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CA
Jack up the front end (blocking rear wheels), transmission in neutral, ignition switch in unlock position...and begin checking -  grab tire(s) top & bottom & see if it/they will rock - could be ball joint(s) or in hub or failed bushes on inboard end of the lower arm (on wiggly pin), grab tire at 3 & 9 o'clock and check for play in steering track rod end(s), look at tie-rod to lower arm bolt(s) [that 5/16" bolt is all that keeps the wheel pointed forward], check tie-rod bushes at the ears on the front of the subframe by the apron.  Have someone gently turn the steering wheel while you have your hands at 3 & 9 o,clock (do right & left sides) to see if there is any play in the steering rack.  With what you describe something should become apparent to you.

 Posted: Jul 27, 2017 02:56PM
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I think I got it narrowed down to something in the right front.When driving and go over a dip or bump in the road there is a good knock,sounds on the metal side only on the right side.I think its in the tie-rod or the ball joint. Any help what I should look for?

 Posted: Jul 27, 2017 11:08AM
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CA
Could it be as simple as a U joints clicking on the exhaust..

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Jul 27, 2017 07:10AM
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US
Two holes through: 150. One hole through: 190. Torque to spec and continue to tighten until a hole lines up. Note, also, change to a metric nut.

 Posted: Jul 26, 2017 04:20PM
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CA
I would 2nd checking the torque on the castle nuts right & left.  60 ft./lbs. for drum brake, minimum 150 ft./lbs. for disc brakes, perhaps 40 ft./lbs. more if Metro discs.

 Posted: Jul 26, 2017 11:18AM
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CA
Did you replace the ball joints on the car, or did you remove the hubs. If you removed the hubs, did you tighten the driveshaft nuts back up to specification? There are different torque values depending on whether you have drums or disks.

A ticking noise could be a worn CV joint, or something simpler, like a dust shield that touches a disk only when side-loaded a certain way. Even when torqued to spec, hubs do distort slightly under cornering load and it is sometimes enough to have a dust shield rub.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jul 26, 2017 10:37AM
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Got the u joints done,now the right front end has a ticking noise when you turn the wheel to the right.The car is off and the wheel is straight you turn the wheel only a little and turn it back straight there is a tick to the right and a tick to the left straight.Only to the right,nothing to the left.I think its in the front suspension. I have wet suspension now.