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 Posted: Jul 7, 2017 04:17PM
 Edited:  Jul 7, 2017 04:23PM
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Thanks, Ken.  I appreciate your comment!

As for the car you found, Evil, you didn't indicate the mileage on the car you found, but I would simply play the dealer's advice against him!  Make it part of the deal.  The part isn't all that expensive.  I don't remember what we paid, but we bought one of the coils plus a full set of spark plugs at the dealership for $150, including tax.  That was OUR price, not his.  Spouse contributed the labor.  At the time we didn't realize that the plugs were supposed to be replaced at 60,000 miles (it had about 75,000).  We only did one coil, and never had a bit of trouble for the next 25,000+ miles, at which point I sold the car.  I wouldn't stress over it.  As Ken said, you'll have plenty of warning, with misfiring and maybe a CEL (check engine light).  In my car, I noticed misfiring under heavy acceleration, and a CEL that stayed on for a few minutes.  Plenty of time to go to the dealership (better yet, an independent garage).  I might add, we didn't try to diagnose it ourselves, because we "assumed" it was the high pressure fuel pump that we'd heard so much about and there was an extended warranty on that.  BTW, I'm a little unclear--did the previous owner really replace only 1 spark plug??  Or did you mean that he replaced one coil and all 4  plugs?

Just about anything in buying a car is negotiable--use this to your advantage!

 Posted: Jul 7, 2017 02:49PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilKoala
OK, I found a mini,.low miles, serviced only at the dealership. But, the dealer says the current owner brought it in because the computer flagged an issue, and it turned out to be a coil (and spark plug?) I'm not sure exactly what that is, but the dealership told me they recommended all 4 be replaced since one was already worn,  BUT not a big deal since the computer will tell me when the other ones start failing. The current owner did replace ONE coil and spark plug, but not all 4.  Is the dealership right, and what happens when the other coils start going?
Coil and spark plugs are part of the ignition system.  If these items get 'worn' or begin to fail, your MINI may run a little rougher and maybe not idle smoothly.  Your gas mileage will also suffer.  Not a real 'critical' item, but something that should be addressed sooner than later.

Daffodildeb - great input to the thread!  Thank you!

 Posted: Jul 7, 2017 01:07PM
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OK, I found a mini,.low miles, serviced only at the dealership. But, the dealer says the current owner brought it in because the computer flagged an issue, and it turned out to be a coil (and spark plug?) I'm not sure exactly what that is, but the dealership told me they recommended all 4 be replaced since one was already worn,  BUT not a big deal since the computer will tell me when the other ones start failing. The current owner did replace ONE coil and spark plug, but not all 4.  Is the dealership right, and what happens when the other coils start going?

 Posted: Jul 5, 2017 08:29PM
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You seem to be quite concerned about the turbo (S) edition.  Any particular reason why?  Other than the heat issue I mentioned, which would have been corrected on the model and year you're interested in, I wouldn't expect any particular issue with a MINI turbo.  Note--I said turbo, not supercharger.  I never had any problem with my turbo, and frankly I can't offhand think of any of my MINI owning friends who have had theirs fail.  You say the cars you've seen are in the 60 to 80k mile range--that's pretty young!  And you also said you wouldn't be piling on the miles very quickly.  Before you buy an automatic non-S, be sure you thoroughly drive one.  They're pretty gutless, IMO.  A well-maintained S should take you long after that point, turbo and all.  Here's a suggestion, though--before you stress out over that, consider setting aside a couple of grand in a savings account to cover a potential turbo replacement (or anything else).  IF the worst should happen, you'll have what you need, and you won't have to regret not having the extra punch on hand.  It sure makes commuting more fun!

As for the seats.  You know, when I ordered my '07, I automatically checked the mental box for a leather interior.  After all, I hadn't had vinyl ("leatherette") in any car for the previous 25 or 30 years!  Spouse said no, though.  As it turned out, the stock vinyl seats looked as good 7 years/103,000 miles after purchase as they did on the day I picked her up brand new.  As a further testimonial, I ordered my 2015 with ALL the bells and whistles EXCEPT leather.  The stock seats are very good quality, and you shouldn't have any problem.  Actually, some of the optional leather seats I've seen in my friends' MINIs show more wear and rippling.  I've never seen cracking, and they don't require as much care as leather.  All I've ever done is wipe them with soapy water after the dogs drool on them.

I wouldn't buy a car now and store it until later.  If you're thinking about doing that, you'd be better served by setting aside the money you'd put into car payments for either a later model or a reserve fund for potential repairs.  Cars need to be driven--regularly.  You won't gain anything by storing for the future.  If you must do that, be sure to add Stabil to the gas, buy a battery tender, and...oh, just drive it!

Out of curiosity, what state do you live in?  Do you have a dealer nearby who can do a PPI?  It would be especially valuable to have a dealer "read" the key--it will verify that no recalls are outstanding, and also give you an idea of the service and use history, including things that are coming up.  The nice thing about today's cars is they can predict a lot of things!

 Posted: Jul 5, 2017 06:35PM
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Thanks for taking the time to reply DaffodilDeb!

I've found a lot of decent 2010 Clubmans around $9-10k with 60k, some 80k... I'm pretty sure that will be what I end up picking.  Automatic, def base, not turbo. Maybe next time, I'm afraid I'll be hit with a lot of expensive repairs andI'm not mechanically inclined to fix things myself.

Most of the models I look at have Leatherette seats, any opinions on them, are they cheap and vinyl feeling? Will they crack faster than real leather?

The other idea I have is maybe buying the Cooper and storing it until my VW dies (I will have a small loan to buy the Clubman but don't want to pay insurance for both cars) but I'm afraid storing it will cause it's own damage unless I can drive it every few weeks to keep the fluids going.

 Posted: Jul 5, 2017 06:02PM
 Edited:  Oct 31, 2017 10:20AM
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Oh boy, this is what happens when I try to "catch up" on my reading (especially when I should be doing something else!  I ordered an '07 R56 S and drove it to 103,000 miles with no real problems.  I then ordered a '15 F56 S, and have over 36,000 miles so far since delivery in October, 2014.  And yes, I also have a classic Mini.  My kids have had Gens 1, 2, and 3, so I'm pretty familiar with all of them.  My impressions as an owner and driver, not as a mechanic:

Gen 1:  Avoid a CVT.  Learn how to drive a stick and you'll be well served.  Gen 1 gets pretty poor mileage, and the early ones had a learning curve in the design and manufacturing process.  Things that shouldn't go wrong in any modern car often did--stress cracks in windshields, bad door handles, CVT, mushrooming strut towers, etc, to name just a few.  A Gen 1 S has a supercharger, and you had better make sure when it was last replaced or overhauled.  The non-S is underpowered, especially automatics.  By the time '05 and '06 rolled around, a lot of issues were resolved, but I still wouldn't want one.

Gen 2:  Better mileage, suspension, seats, etc., BUT the S had some problems with timing chains tensioners and with gunk building up on the intake valves from the direct fuel injection.  The former issue was primarily because people didn't change oil often enough.  Many people actually thought 10,000 to 15,000 miles was a good interval!  One of my service advisors said he frequently got cars in with only 2 quarts in the entire engine, driven by people who wondered why they then had problems.  MINIs are NOT appliances.  The latter problem can be largely prevented by putting in good gas.  The owner's manual specifically calls for "Top Tier" gas (look it up).  Mine was fed almost exclusively on Shell 93, and I never had an issue with it.  I replaced the timing chain at 88,000 miles, before I had anything actually break, and was later reimbursed by MINI USA.  I've got friends who didn't, and they weren't happy campers in the end.  My independent mechanic did service on the things we didn't do ourselves, but don't be scared off from changing your own oil, replacing coolant system components, etc.  Things like that are more expensive than they need to be at dealers.  Parts aren't a problem.

BTW, some of the sunroof cars had problems with noise.  Check the alignment of the glass itself in the tracks if this is an issue.  

Another issue with the R56 S was warping of the intake scoop, which was actually a dummy for the first couple of years ('07-08), and only about 1/3 open after that.  After the second replacement (free, under warranty), I simply left out the decorative fake grill insert, and drove with it open, upon recommendation of my dealer.  No further problems in spite of Houston heat.  Since then the company put in better turbo shielding as a recall, but I'd sold mine by then.

IF the timing chain tensioner has been replaced, and the car has been well maintained overall, with no damage or flood history, an '07 is a bargain.  So many people got scared off that the value dropped.  My early '07 was quite reliable, in spite of autocrosses, long trips, and my lead foot.  

The high pressure fuel pump gave a lot of people problems, so MINI extended the warranty (transferable) on that system to 10 years, 120,000.  Something to ask about if you're buying one outside of those limits.  I never had the problem.  The one time it was misfiring, it turned out to be a bad #2 coil and plugs that should have been replaced 10,000 miles before.  Cost to do it ourselves was $150 in parts, plus $100 dealer diagnostics.

Again, a Gen 2 automatic is underpowered, in my opinion. 

The F56 S is the best of the 3, in my opinion, but won't be in the price range you stated.  Starting in 2014, both the S and the non S were turbocharged.  Other than a couple of recalls, mine has literally not been in the service bay of my dealer except for free oil changes.  Better engine, better suspension, lighter clutch, etc.  Some people don't like the electric steering, BUT there is no torque steer.  That was a real issue on the R56 S if you had a lead foot.

Both of my cars were delivered with stock run-flats, of course, but I ditched them as soon as they were worn.  I've used non-runflats since then.  I prefer Continental Extreme Contacts.  My R56 went to 17 states plus D.C., from Texas--several times to Florida, and I typically drove 10 hours a day with no issues or fatigue.  My F56 has been to 10 states so far, from Arkansas, again driving 10 hours a day without effort, usually solo.  Oh, did I tell you I'm no spring chicken?  I'm a 66 year old woman.

Best advice I can give you is to buy the latest your money will afford, get a really good PPI, and find an independent MINI-certified garage to take care of things you can't do.  Then join your local MINI club and have fun!  Ask any questions you have and I'll try to make up an answer.

Much of what I've written is MY opinion, based on MY experience.  YMMV.



 Posted: Jul 3, 2017 06:38AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilKoala
Should I stay away from the first gen Clubman, or it's the first gen Cooper with all the problems and the first gen Clubman is really a second gen Cooper?
Here are the MINI generations:

Gen1 (Daimler - Chrysler 'Tritec' engine)
2002-2006 R50 MINI Cooper and R53 Cooper S Hardtop
2005-2008 R52 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Convertible

Gen2 (Peugeot - Citroen 'Prince' engine)
2007-2013 R56 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Hardtop
2008-2014 R55 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Clubman
2009-2015 R57 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Convertible
2012-2015 R58 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Coupe
2012-2015 R59 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Roadster
2011-2016 R60 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Countryman
2013-2016 R61 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Paceman

Gen3 (BMW engines)
2014-2020 F56 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Hardtop
2015-2020 F55 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Hardtop 4-Door
2016-2021 F57 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Convertible
2016-2020 F54 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Clubman
2017-2022 F60 MINI Cooper and Cooper S Countryman

As with any used cars, I always recommend you find the newest model that your budget allows with a couple caveats:

a.  find a well maintained stock car (no modifications) with complete service history
b.  always have a pre-purchase inspection performed at a shop familiar with MINIs

Some models may have a higher incidence of 'reported' issues, but a great majority of them run trouble-free.  Any car, new or used, may have some issues - it is impossible to predict perfect reliability.

It is difficult to recommend any specific model / year because it always depends on the mileage, condition, history, etc....


 Posted: Jul 1, 2017 02:28PM
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Should I stay away from the first gen Clubman, or it's the first gen Cooper with all the problems and the first gen Clubman is really a second gen Cooper?

 Posted: Jun 30, 2017 09:40AM
 Edited:  Jun 30, 2017 01:34PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilKoala
Kenatminimania - I've been reading a lot of forums lately, and the consensus seems to be what you're saying here. The turbo is high maintenance, or at least there will come a time, probably before 80K, where it will need something expensive. The non-turbo version doesn't have a HPFP, and much less chance of timing chain stretching and oil sludge buildup.

Is that an accurate aassessment?

I think I'll find a gen 2 "JustAClub" to test drive and see what it's like. In sure it will have more pickup than my big 2.8 V6.

Oh, are there issues driving the smaller 3 and 4 cyl cars 75 mph on a highway? Is that too much for them?
The turbo requires some attention when driving:

1.  we recommend frequent oil changes - 5k interval or less.  this is because dirty oil adversely affects the bearings in the turbo, especially after a hard drive (read the next item)

2.  after a long or hard drive, the proper procedure is to drive easy before stopping / parking to cool the turbo.  it is also recommended that you let the car idle for a minute or two before shutdown to cool the turbo even more.  if this is not followed, the oil gets 'coked' inside the turbo when the oil stops circulating after shutdown, affecting its ability to properly lubricate and cool the turbo.  the MINI has an auxiliary water pump that runs after shutdown to cool the turbo, but the problem is the oil is not circulating - it sits in the turbo and cooks.  for most people, idling after stopping is neither convenient or practical - and thus the shorter turbo life....

Both the cooper and s models have the HPFP - this is necessary for the direct injection which both gen2 models use (one is port injected, the other is direct injection into the cylinder).  There have been several different HPFP designs used in the newer models - which supposedly addressed any issues with the earlier design.

The timing chain stretch ('death rattle') was the result of an inferior design with the chain tensioner where it failed to hold pressure after shutdown allowing the slack chain to rattle at the next startup.  Repeated starting in this condition causes the chain to stretch exacerbating the problem.  MINI has gone thru several iterations of the tensioner design and has supposedly addressed the problem.

oil sludge buildup is simply a result of inadequate maintenance.

'torque' is what pushes you back into the seat when you accelerate.  the turbo models builds toque quickly even at low rpms.  on a normally aspirated car, you don't have this same sensation as the torque builds slowly.

hope this helps.

 Posted: Jun 30, 2017 09:15AM
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EvilK ... Having owned a Turbo MINI for 6 years, I can tell you A) the visceral feeling when that turbo kicks in is quite the rush B) the maintenance issues with the turbo are just as bad as you've heard. Mine became a money pit at 75K miles and I traded it.

As far as the "just-a-cooper" version is concerned, I offer the following story ... I met a couple of MINI enthusiasts from Texas when I was in Fontana NC at MOTD (Minis on the Dragon), and one of them prompted the other to tell the story of how they met.

The story-teller explained he was attending his second MOTD when they met. The first MOTD was a lot of fun, but, before the second, he had his turbo car tuned and lowered to enhance his experience on the twisty roads. Now, he's driving the Dragon, downshifting, leaning into and powering out of the curves. He's really hitting it hard, but notices in his rear-view that another MINI is a safe distance back AND is keeping pace. Then he notices that MINI does NOT have a hood scoop, it's a "just-a". So, he pushed his car even harder and never manages to gain ground on the following car. When he finally reaches Fontana, the other car pulls in next to him and he goes over to congratulate the driver. The driver of the "just-a" leans in and says, "and it's an automatic, too".

And that's how these two friends from Texas met.

Bottom line, the "just-a" may not give you that turbo rush, but you can still enjoy the fun of driving twisty roads.

 Posted: Jun 29, 2017 04:28PM
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Kenatminimania - I've been reading a lot of forums lately, and the consensus seems to be what you're saying here. The turbo is high maintenance, or at least there will come a time, probably before 80K, where it will need something expensive. The non-turbo version doesn't have a HPFP, and much less chance of timing chain stretching and oil sludge buildup.

Is that an accurate aassessment?

I think I'll find a gen 2 "JustAClub" to test drive and see what it's like. In sure it will have more pickup than my big 2.8 V6.

Oh, are there issues driving the smaller 3 and 4 cyl cars 75 mph on a highway? Is that too much for them?

 Posted: Jun 28, 2017 01:19AM
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CA
Peter: I can only imagine the service department at the BMW/BINI dealership hated to see you coming- LOL

BIG AL

[email protected]

Niagara Ontario Canada

 Posted: Jun 27, 2017 02:59PM
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Are turbos expensive to fix? I thought I saw a non-dealership price might be 2k to rebuild/fix?

 Posted: Jun 27, 2017 12:19PM
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I read quite a few reviews that said the 3cyl can seem too weak and the bigger engine really serves the larger Clubman better.  I don't know what torque curve means, but I'm going to look it up.

It also sounded like the Mini is the opposite of my V6 VW. The mini has more torque at lower speeds (I hear) and my VW has NO pickup but can handle very fast highway speeds... when I get up to it  

 Posted: Jun 27, 2017 11:46AM
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I had a low mile 2006 a number of years ago

Run flats hurt me in ways I can't describe. Ditched for standard tyres

Cracked windscreen replaced under warrantee Two clutches replaced under warrantee Set of wheels replaced under warrantee Squeaks, rattles and knocks that could not be sorted Thirsty Mushroomed strut tower tops

Hunk of hunk that I dumped quickly.

Sadly all cars are getting overly complicated and crazy expensive to fix

 Posted: Jun 27, 2017 08:52AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilKoala
Thanks for the Cooper model definitions! Is there a big difference between the gen 3 models, 3 vs 4 cylinder? Are the engines completely different?
Surprisingly, the engines in the gen3 models (3 vs 4 cylinder) are very similar.  The only real difference is the number of cylinders and the resulting change in displacement.  It is essentially the same block with one less cylinder - bore and stroke remains unchanged.

Power is 134bhp vs 189bhp and torque is 162 ft-lbs vs 207ft-lbs.  Both are turbocharged, with nice fat torque curves. 

 Posted: Jun 26, 2017 01:43PM
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Thanks for the Cooper model definitions! Is there a big difference between the gen 3 models, 3 vs 4 cylinder? Are the engines completely different?

 Posted: Jun 26, 2017 09:13AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilKoala
I was under the impression the base Mini has turbos and the "faster" ones have super chargers.  Are there BINIs without turbos? I really  appreciate the advice, Some of the big ticket items in my Passat were the fuel pump, alternator, both I think around $800 if I remember right, and recently a lot of suspension-related items like tie rod ends that cost a lot of money.

I think I had some engine gaskets that were leaking but I was able to wait until the timing belt was being done so I saved a lot of money there.

Someone told me run-flat tires are $500 each, is that true?? Run-flat tires doesn't sound like it would ride well, but it's just the name that's giving me the perception of a hard tire for some reason.
Gen1
Cooper non-S: normally aspirated 1.6 ltr 4 cylinder
Cooper S:  supercharged 1.6 ltr 4 cylinder

Gen2
Cooper non-S:  normally aspirated 1.6 ltr 4 cylinder
Cooper S:  turbocharged 1.6 ltr 4 cylinder

Gen3
Cooper non-S:  turbocharged 1.5 liter 3 cylinder
Cooper S:  turbocharged 2 ltr 4 cylinder

The runflat tires are not the best riding or handling tires.  The stiff sidewall is what makes them 'runflats' but you give up ride quality and performance, and are expensive to replace.  Many owners switch to non-runflat standard tires when they wear out and carry a roadside assistance card or a flat repair kit.

 Posted: Jun 25, 2017 01:27PM
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it is a FELONY to convert from salvage title to clean title..this is called WASHING..  done though the states of Colo, Ky ,  WV and montana..  later bc

 Posted: Jun 25, 2017 12:48PM
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But if it's converted from a salvage to a rebuilt title, that means it can be inspected and registered, right? I'm not sure about insurance or a small loan to buy it, I'd have to look into it.  Would the COD or salvage paperwork detail the some of the damage? I was told the damage was not under the hood, just the axle and wheel, which I really find hard to believe would be totaled because of that.

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