Oil plug leak
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Apr 3, 2017 09:15AM | croc7 | |
Mar 30, 2017 05:16PM | gypsy | |
Mar 28, 2017 03:44AM | dklawson | |
Mar 28, 2017 02:49AM | Willie_B | |
Mar 28, 2017 01:57AM | nkerr | Edited: Mar 28, 2017 01:58AM |
Mar 27, 2017 06:34PM | DRMINI | |
Mar 27, 2017 03:44PM | gypsy |
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- Check Amazon for expandable rubber (neoprene) plug. A friend of mine used one to get home from Mini Meet in Winona, Minnesota. Worked great until he was able to install a helicoil.
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Take the drain plug/bolt to the parts store and find the closest size Nylon drain plug washer. The Nylon drain washers will squish and form the seal you need easier than copper. Carry a few spares in the boot just in case someone changes the oil for you and messes up the washer that was in use.
Assuming this is a replacement, oversized drain plug, it probably does not have a magnet attached like the factory drain plug. If that's true, look for cylindrical magnets (eBay, Amazon, etc). Buy some about 1/4 to 5/16" in diameter and maybe 1 to 1.5" long. While the drain plug is out, drill a hole down (but not through) its center from the threaded end. Degrease the magnet and drain plug hole with brake cleaner and bond the magnet in with JB Weld.
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As I have a sump guard installed oil changes have always been messy. To help with that I have had the drain plug drilled out and tapped for a Fumoto drain valve. I think this one may be the smallest one they make (F124), they do not make a direct fit any longer. Does not need to be any larger as the inside of the drain plug is not large anyway. Now I can hook a hose to the valve and flip the lever and direct it to the catch pan.
"How can anything bigger be mini?"
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The sealing is made by the face, so if the hole was not drilled exactly straight the result is an un-sealable hole.
I was able to helicoil mine back to the original thread and then grind the face so that it is perpendicular to the existing, crooked hole.
Perhaps Dr Mini's suggestion of a liberal use of form-a-gasket on the threads will be capable of holding the oil in (and re-apply each time the oil is changed).
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Wipe the threads after draining oil, and smear them with a little Loctite 242 or similar.
I had a similar problem where someone had helicoiled the thread and didn't do it square to the washer face.
Loctite worked for me.
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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