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 Posted: Mar 21, 2017 06:29AM
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CA
Back in the 70's I bought a '69 Mini for about $350: The 998 lump was out because it had some kind of transmission problem and the clutch slipped. Once I got it home and played with the shifting (engine still out) I discovered the same problem. Removing the diff, I could see  that the shifter fork was not moving with the shaft. I could see the bolt and lock-nut but could not get to them. Reading a factory manual (pre Haynes!), I discovered that the shaft and fork were the last pieces to come out of the box and the first to go in. Since I had no garage or workshop, there was no way for me to do a transmission job. Studying the angle and location of the bolt, I realized that if there was a hole big enough to get a 7/16" socket through, I could tighten the bolt without disassembling everything. I drilled the back of the transmission box, tightened the bolt and tapped the hole for a plumber's galvanized pipe plug. Done.

When the slipping clutch got unbearable, I took it to a dealer (remember those?) where they replaced the clutch with the lump in the car.  They also levelled up the hydrolastic.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Mar 21, 2017 04:05AM
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US
I don't do racing remotes any longer but always loc tite, jam nut and safety wired the shift forks when I did. I'd do a complete strip down and have a very good look around. I'm sure that was not good for anything in there. But as you know I love gear box work. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Mar 20, 2017 03:46PM
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US
Sorry to leave you all hanging.... Yup Minimans mostly has it!  I surmised that while in 3rd, with the jam-nut backed off, the set screw holding the shift fork onto the rod finally wobbled out enough so that a 'downshift' to second occurred without moving the 3rd/4th fork (thus leaving it in 3rd), so as soon as the clutch was let out in second, the locked up box and the car's momentum broke the U-joints (yes the GCD101 type).  When the axles were re-installed, the shifter seemed to "click" into all the gears but the box was actually in 3rd all the time (so could be "driven in 3rd or 4th" ... actually only third, but the shifter would click into both positions, so the customer assumed both) - So when 1st, 2nd, or reverse were selected too,  no amount of engine would drive the car in two gears at once!

I talked to the customer and that's exactly what happened. I told him what to look for, and they got it all apart and found the little screw and it's jam-nut backed out of the 3rd/4th fork, and luckily, no other damage!

 Posted: Mar 19, 2017 05:14PM
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US
sounds like a gearbox issue. Downshifting to 2nd and locking up would have the drive wheels break up the U joints.


It may go into gear when parked. Does it go into gear when running? ( 1 and 2?)


been about 25 years or more since I had my hands inside a gearbox.  something with a broken synchro outer ring maybe that is 


now jammed on the gear shaft?


I'm patiently awaiting the findings.

 Posted: Mar 19, 2017 04:26PM
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jack it up.  Supports under the lower ball joints.  Try it again.

 Posted: Mar 19, 2017 11:28AM
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Well? any resolution to this??

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Mar 17, 2017 06:08PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by mur
U joints for yoke style axles?

DRIVE COUPLINGS
I assume Jemal is referring to the u-joints inside QL-5000 couplers.

Doug L.
 Posted: Mar 17, 2017 05:25PM
mur
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U joints for yoke style axles?

DRIVE COUPLINGS

 Posted: Mar 17, 2017 03:57PM
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shift fork done broke or the bolt fell out! Its trying to engage Two gears at once. He's lucky the joints let go and didn't explode the box all over the road.....................

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Mar 17, 2017 12:53PM
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US
Everything seemed fine until the u-joints broke on a downshift apparently!  Yes the SHIFTER seems to be able to click into all the gear positions...

 Posted: Mar 17, 2017 12:12PM
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Sounds like something possibly in the main shaft alignment or the relationship between the main gears and the laygear, but does sound odd that it will still got into 1st and 2nd.

1st and 2nd are hi torque. 3rd and 4th are supported by the flywheel housing bearing, moreso.

Is the double roller bearing lacking it's cage/retainer? To rule this out, if the speedometer is still working, the main bearing and retainer are probably fine.

Is reverse gear shaft not locked in and mucking about with the first gear syncro?

 Posted: Mar 17, 2017 11:38AM
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Well, everyone stumped?  More clues... it is a 22g1128 4-synchro remote and the shifter seems to click into all the proper gear positions.....

 Posted: Mar 17, 2017 11:32AM
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Can I ask for a hint?  Three synchro remote box?

 Posted: Mar 17, 2017 08:06AM
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US
Out of the ordinary problems are part of the challenge of what we do here, and it's fun to speculate on what might be causing a particular symptom.   Here's one I've been helping a customer with all week.    

A couple of weeks back, he purchased some new u-joints for his yoke style axles. Ok, the u-joints failed. Nobody thought anything else.   Called me earlier this week and said with the axles installed, putting the car in first or second and letting the clutch out caused an immediate stall.  He recollected that his u-joints "broke" while driving, which I did not know before.  Now the car would not move in 1st or 2nd.  He said he could actually drive it in "3rd and 4th" but any attempt to go into 2nd would stall the engine at once.   I think I
know what's going on here!  What do you think?   As the customer is pulling it all apart, we'll know soon!!

Maybe post other unusual problems that you've solved (or not!).